Question about coolant system expansion tank
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Amateur
Joined: Nov 2013
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No....the cap on the overflow tank is not in a position to stop any water flow now that I think about it...and the radiator has no cap.... Could I have a head leak or gasket leak without overheating and losing fluid?
Champion
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,875
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From: North Eastern England
The expansion tank has a yellow flip up lid deal, that you top the tank off when needed. That should not be pressurized at all and if it is....there's a major problem somewhere!
The rad cap is the only one that should be pressurized when loosened and only then when it's hot when the Tstat has let hot the coolant through.
As for the blend doors, if you know that they have nothing to do with coolant flow....why would you then say "if the coolant flow was normal that THEN I could look into the blend doors etc". Don't understand why you'd even say that if coolant flow has nothing to do with them? Keep things simple and stay away from potential "red herrings" that allow your focus to the problem drift.
Anywho, the little brass jiggle pin as you call it would not cause the large coolant flow you are mentioning and yes ideally, it should go to the 12 o'clock position, to burp air etc.
Can you post a video of this "flow" into the overflow tank?
That'll give us an idea into how bad it is?
You can still have a cracked head/gasket issues that will allow exhaust emissions back into the cooling circuit, pressuring the system even further, but have no milky oil type deal going on.
There is a kit that you can buy with chemicals (Autozone Pep boys NAPA etc etc) that proves without any doubt 100%, if emissions are mixing with coolant therefore a cracked/warped head.
It involves mixing coolant with the chemicals in the kit and looking at the resultant colour. If you get a positive for emissions, you can guarantee there's some sort of head/gasket problem.
Might be worth a look at?
Good luck and post up what you find.
Al.
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Amateur
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Not referring to the cap on the overflow tank. referring to the silver 16 psi (I think from memory) cap, that sits on the top of the left side of your radiator as you look at it from the front of the truck. Well at least it is there on my 03 5.7 Hemi.
The expansion tank has a yellow flip up lid deal, that you top the tank off when needed. That should not be pressurized at all and if it is....there's a major problem somewhere!
The rad cap is the only one that should be pressurized when loosened and only then when it's hot when the Tstat has let hot the coolant through.
As for the blend doors, if you know that they have nothing to do with coolant flow....why would you then say "if the coolant flow was normal that THEN I could look into the blend doors etc". Don't understand why you'd even say that if coolant flow has nothing to do with them? Keep things simple and stay away from potential "red herrings" that allow your focus to the problem drift.
Anywho, the little brass jiggle pin as you call it would not cause the large coolant flow you are mentioning and yes ideally, it should go to the 12 o'clock position, to burp air etc.
Can you post a video of this "flow" into the overflow tank?
That'll give us an idea into how bad it is?
You can still have a cracked head/gasket issues that will allow exhaust emissions back into the cooling circuit, pressuring the system even further, but have no milky oil type deal going on.
There is a kit that you can buy with chemicals (Autozone Pep boys NAPA etc etc) that proves without any doubt 100%, if emissions are mixing withL coolant therefore a cracked/warped head.
It involves mixing coolant with the chemicals in the kit and looking at the resultant colour. If you get a positive for emissions, you can guarantee there's some sort of head/gasket problem.
Might be worth a look at?
Good luck and post up what you find.Doses need to always be kept to the bare minimum that gives your pet acceptable relief. Older patients generally need lower doses less frequently than younger, more robust, pets. Its also wise to check your pet's kidney and liver function before and during the use of most pain control medications.
Al.
The expansion tank has a yellow flip up lid deal, that you top the tank off when needed. That should not be pressurized at all and if it is....there's a major problem somewhere!
The rad cap is the only one that should be pressurized when loosened and only then when it's hot when the Tstat has let hot the coolant through.
As for the blend doors, if you know that they have nothing to do with coolant flow....why would you then say "if the coolant flow was normal that THEN I could look into the blend doors etc". Don't understand why you'd even say that if coolant flow has nothing to do with them? Keep things simple and stay away from potential "red herrings" that allow your focus to the problem drift.
Anywho, the little brass jiggle pin as you call it would not cause the large coolant flow you are mentioning and yes ideally, it should go to the 12 o'clock position, to burp air etc.
Can you post a video of this "flow" into the overflow tank?
That'll give us an idea into how bad it is?
You can still have a cracked head/gasket issues that will allow exhaust emissions back into the cooling circuit, pressuring the system even further, but have no milky oil type deal going on.
There is a kit that you can buy with chemicals (Autozone Pep boys NAPA etc etc) that proves without any doubt 100%, if emissions are mixing withL coolant therefore a cracked/warped head.
It involves mixing coolant with the chemicals in the kit and looking at the resultant colour. If you get a positive for emissions, you can guarantee there's some sort of head/gasket problem.
Might be worth a look at?
Good luck and post up what you find.Doses need to always be kept to the bare minimum that gives your pet acceptable relief. Older patients generally need lower doses less frequently than younger, more robust, pets. Its also wise to check your pet's kidney and liver function before and during the use of most pain control medications.
Al.
Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 332
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From: North Jersey
I have had my truck since 04 and has always had coolant flow in the degasser bottle even after I had my heads and gaskets redone 2 years ago. My friend who did my heads works for Chrysler and said that is the way it's supposed to be. Your heat problem must be something else.
Champion
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 1
From: North Eastern England
Adambomber.
Now I know your truck is a 3.7 and has no cap on the radiator, I can also confirm that with the header tank forming part of your pressurized system, it's perfectly normal for coolant to be circulating trough it.
It should be a good flow as well.
I thought I'd read that your truck was a Hemi??
If it had have been and it had the problem your describing, there would have been a massive problem with it.
OK as for your issues, was there a problem with the heater before you changed the Tstat?
If there wasn't, it's most likely your system needs burping to get the air out introduced when you changed it out.
If there was an issue with the heat before that it could as you say, be either the heater matrix is plugged or indeed the blend doors.
Anywho....good luck.
Al.
Now I know your truck is a 3.7 and has no cap on the radiator, I can also confirm that with the header tank forming part of your pressurized system, it's perfectly normal for coolant to be circulating trough it.
It should be a good flow as well.
I thought I'd read that your truck was a Hemi??
If it had have been and it had the problem your describing, there would have been a massive problem with it.
OK as for your issues, was there a problem with the heater before you changed the Tstat?
If there wasn't, it's most likely your system needs burping to get the air out introduced when you changed it out.
If there was an issue with the heat before that it could as you say, be either the heater matrix is plugged or indeed the blend doors.
Anywho....good luck.
Al.
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Amateur
Joined: Nov 2013
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Thx for the input al. My heat was fine up until my waterpump went out and I had to replace it. Now that I know the cooling system is ok, I believe that either the heater core got plugged up by some of the pieces of the wterpump impeller, or air got in the system. It's too coincidental that it started after I had too add fluid to be a blend door. Would be wierd for the blend door to just happen to break at this exact same time. Also I hear a wierd swooshing sound in my dash, sounds like water swooshing around. Maybe this indicates heater core not full of coolant from being clogged.
Champion
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 1
From: North Eastern England
Adambomber.
Get your truck sat up on either axle stands or a set of car jacks.
Just the front end mind you.
Get the front as high as is safely possible.
Run the truck with the expansion tank cap in place and the heater on full bore with the blower fan running. Get the truck up to full operating temp so you can see both the coolant returning into the expansion tank and/or you can feel the top hose into your rad is red hot, indicationg that the Tstat is open.
Switch it off and let her sit to cool.
When you can remove the expansion cap do so and let any air in there burp out.
You may need to do this cycle several times for all the air to get out of the cooling system and heater matrix.
It's a pain, but will ensure that all the air is out.
That "swooshing" sound your hearing under the dash, is as you say coolant in an air
pocket.
You might even get a temp spike either setting off a code or your gauge pegging on hot, as the temp sensor sits in one of these air pockets. Ive seen it and had it, so just watch out for that one.
Good luck and post up if this works.
Al.
Get your truck sat up on either axle stands or a set of car jacks.
Just the front end mind you.
Get the front as high as is safely possible.
Run the truck with the expansion tank cap in place and the heater on full bore with the blower fan running. Get the truck up to full operating temp so you can see both the coolant returning into the expansion tank and/or you can feel the top hose into your rad is red hot, indicationg that the Tstat is open.
Switch it off and let her sit to cool.
When you can remove the expansion cap do so and let any air in there burp out.
You may need to do this cycle several times for all the air to get out of the cooling system and heater matrix.
It's a pain, but will ensure that all the air is out.
That "swooshing" sound your hearing under the dash, is as you say coolant in an air
pocket.
You might even get a temp spike either setting off a code or your gauge pegging on hot, as the temp sensor sits in one of these air pockets. Ive seen it and had it, so just watch out for that one.
Good luck and post up if this works.
Al.
