Dodge Ram Heater System
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Dodge Ram Heater System
Hello Fellow Dodge Lovers.
I just wanted to pass on some recent success in resolving a heater issue with my Dodge Ram 2500.
Issue: Regardless of fan speed setting, I barely got any flow from vents. No matter the vent **** setting (defrost, panel, feet), I would always feel colder air blowing at feet area (especially on passenger side) than what little would come out of the slider heat setting. Vent control was sluggish and I could hear a 'click' sometimes when I changed the vent **** setting. Cold air AC works all too well, but still with little flow from vents.
Cause: The 'flapper' is a vent cover that changes flow from one vent to the other. For example, when you turn your vent selector **** from defrost to floor, a small electric motor turns the flapper to aim the heat to that part of the cab. The heating/cooling system uses three flappers. One controls temperature, one controls where that air is delivered to the cab, and the other controls whether you are using recirculated air from the cab or if you are pulling air from outside. It seems this recirculation flap is the one that breaks most often.
Proper Repair involves removing a good portion of the dashboard and replacing the main heating distribution section with an upgraded flapper system. It fits perfectly into the existing system. Although the upgraded part costs anywhere from $60 to $120 depending on who you call, I got an estimate for $580. The main cost involved is labor.
If you can live without recirculated air and you're okay with just pulling air from outside, then you can do it yourself for nothing.
1) Lay down on the floorboard and locate the fan motor which is directly under the glove box.
2) Use a 7mm socket to remove the three screws that hold the motor in place. Be prepared to prevent it from falling when you remove the last screw.
3) Once removed, unplug the power connector and set the motor aside.
4) I was able to look straight up the newly exposed hole and see the broken flapper laying over it. Reach up and pull the flapper out. You should also find a small piece of plastic that broke off with it. Make sure you have all the pieces or they will could get stuck in the fan blades when you turn it back on. It took a minute to wrangle the flapper out of there...like solving a Rubik's cube.
5) Reinstall the motor using all three mounting screws.
6) Pug the connector back into the motor.
7) Test it.
Hope this saves you some time, money, and cold rides!
I just wanted to pass on some recent success in resolving a heater issue with my Dodge Ram 2500.
Issue: Regardless of fan speed setting, I barely got any flow from vents. No matter the vent **** setting (defrost, panel, feet), I would always feel colder air blowing at feet area (especially on passenger side) than what little would come out of the slider heat setting. Vent control was sluggish and I could hear a 'click' sometimes when I changed the vent **** setting. Cold air AC works all too well, but still with little flow from vents.
Cause: The 'flapper' is a vent cover that changes flow from one vent to the other. For example, when you turn your vent selector **** from defrost to floor, a small electric motor turns the flapper to aim the heat to that part of the cab. The heating/cooling system uses three flappers. One controls temperature, one controls where that air is delivered to the cab, and the other controls whether you are using recirculated air from the cab or if you are pulling air from outside. It seems this recirculation flap is the one that breaks most often.
Proper Repair involves removing a good portion of the dashboard and replacing the main heating distribution section with an upgraded flapper system. It fits perfectly into the existing system. Although the upgraded part costs anywhere from $60 to $120 depending on who you call, I got an estimate for $580. The main cost involved is labor.
If you can live without recirculated air and you're okay with just pulling air from outside, then you can do it yourself for nothing.
1) Lay down on the floorboard and locate the fan motor which is directly under the glove box.
2) Use a 7mm socket to remove the three screws that hold the motor in place. Be prepared to prevent it from falling when you remove the last screw.
3) Once removed, unplug the power connector and set the motor aside.
4) I was able to look straight up the newly exposed hole and see the broken flapper laying over it. Reach up and pull the flapper out. You should also find a small piece of plastic that broke off with it. Make sure you have all the pieces or they will could get stuck in the fan blades when you turn it back on. It took a minute to wrangle the flapper out of there...like solving a Rubik's cube.
5) Reinstall the motor using all three mounting screws.
6) Pug the connector back into the motor.
7) Test it.
Hope this saves you some time, money, and cold rides!
Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 725
Likes: 14
Nice write up. One big flaw however. If you don't block the fresh air intake, the cold air outside will come directly into the cabin. The door blocks fresh air on recirculate, and blocks the cabin air on fresh. With no door to block either way, you will have cold air blasting at you at highway speeds. If it's cold enough outside, possibly more than your heating can compensate for. Blocking the fresh intake is possible, and I did it while I pondered what to do about the broken door. You need to remove the plastic cowl cover, remove the sticky foil you will see on the passenger side. Then if you reach in that hole, you will feel the hole for the air intake. You need to carefully block it off with foil tape. It's not easy, and your hand will bleed.
I was able to replace the recirculation door without removing the dash. You can do it through the fan opening. There are a couple DIY write ups if you do a thread search. Just make sure you search for blend door or recirc door, not flapper!!
Again, removing the door will give you airflow, but you will not be able to keep frigid air from overtaking the cabin. Alternatively, I suppose you could block the cabin intake which is located behind and above the glove box. That would probably be better for winter, so you don't fog up. When I blocked the exterior it was summer, and I figured it would be best for the A/C.
I was able to replace the recirculation door without removing the dash. You can do it through the fan opening. There are a couple DIY write ups if you do a thread search. Just make sure you search for blend door or recirc door, not flapper!!
Again, removing the door will give you airflow, but you will not be able to keep frigid air from overtaking the cabin. Alternatively, I suppose you could block the cabin intake which is located behind and above the glove box. That would probably be better for winter, so you don't fog up. When I blocked the exterior it was summer, and I figured it would be best for the A/C.
Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 725
Likes: 14
You also said before you removed the door, there was cold air blowing out the passenger side floor. That would be the outside air passing through the box and exiting the cabin intake behind the glove box. That will continue until you block one of the two intakes. I hope I explained that good enough!
