Remote starter draining battery???
#11
01-21-2014, 08:20 AM
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Well I guess problem wasn't solved after all, I went to the installer because he got a new headlight switch for me, (well not new one from a junkyard) I put the switch in yesterday and this morning guess what?? Dead Battery 
Dirtydog I will have to ask the question about the bypass module and also about the resistor, because if they didn't put a resistor in there then the same thing just happened, the switch probably burnt up again. This is so aggravating, I should of just left it the way it was because now instead of starting my truck from indoors now I have to break out my battery charger every morning.
Dirtydog I will have to ask the question about the bypass module and also about the resistor, because if they didn't put a resistor in there then the same thing just happened, the switch probably burnt up again. This is so aggravating, I should of just left it the way it was because now instead of starting my truck from indoors now I have to break out my battery charger every morning.
#12
01-21-2014, 08:29 AM
Sweet. The most frustrating part of a problem is figuring it out!
Are you speaking of the dash control switch that operates the headlights and dimmer function? If so, I think your installer burnt your switch out on you! If you don't use a Relay on the parking lights trigger with the older bypass units, you risk burning up the switch. Which I think is what happened. You also need a resistor inline for the parking lights circuit or the same thing will happen!
---> Do you know what bypass module they installed? Please find out!
Izero, I forgot about the diesel crowd..lol
Also, just FYI..07+ Rams only have 1 IGN wire. A 1k pull down resistor is used on the main IGN wire for the bypass module to allow the MUX circuit to properly activate.
Also, parking light trigger wire for older trucks 2005-prior:
220 Ohm for only parking lights
440 Ohm for Parking and Fog
1130 for all
2007+ only work with the 1130 Ohm resistance value. I tried the 250 and it did nothing. I used 1.2k and it worked just fine. I'm not sure about the 2006's though? I JUST tried these values this afternoon on my own truck. I had my unit warranted and just threw in the brand new replacement. ProComp by CodeAlarm. Used my 6yr old bypass module because it works great XK532. I did NOT have to do any reprogramming of it either. Even after it had been unhooked for a couple weeks. Only thing I had to program was my Tach.
Are you speaking of the dash control switch that operates the headlights and dimmer function? If so, I think your installer burnt your switch out on you! If you don't use a Relay on the parking lights trigger with the older bypass units, you risk burning up the switch. Which I think is what happened. You also need a resistor inline for the parking lights circuit or the same thing will happen!
---> Do you know what bypass module they installed? Please find out!
Izero, I forgot about the diesel crowd..lol
Also, just FYI..07+ Rams only have 1 IGN wire. A 1k pull down resistor is used on the main IGN wire for the bypass module to allow the MUX circuit to properly activate.
Also, parking light trigger wire for older trucks 2005-prior:
220 Ohm for only parking lights
440 Ohm for Parking and Fog
1130 for all
2007+ only work with the 1130 Ohm resistance value. I tried the 250 and it did nothing. I used 1.2k and it worked just fine. I'm not sure about the 2006's though? I JUST tried these values this afternoon on my own truck. I had my unit warranted and just threw in the brand new replacement. ProComp by CodeAlarm. Used my 6yr old bypass module because it works great XK532. I did NOT have to do any reprogramming of it either. Even after it had been unhooked for a couple weeks. Only thing I had to program was my Tach.
Please see my post about the installer tapping the wrong wires... I bet that he tapped the wrong wire.... most common wrong wire to tap is the Red/White wire.... 2nd most common screw up is tapping the wrong Blue wire for the IGN #1 wire... and then not installing the relay correctly.
The installer should have tapped into the 16 AWG Blue wire for IGN #1 which is located at the Ignition Switch Harness. (Use Blue Wire that tests like an IGNITION POWERED WIRE ONLY!) )
The Installer should have tapped into the RED/WHITE 16 AWG Wire for IGN #2 which is located at the Ignition Switch Harness. (There are TWO OF THESE) Use the Red/White that tests like an IGNITION POWERED WIRE ONLY!)
Those are the two most common mistakes that WILL drain the battery.
#13
01-21-2014, 10:51 PM
Hello
I recently had a remote starter professionally installed in my 03 ram 2500, 3 days later my battery was dead when I tried to use it. I have since taken out the 2 fuses that go to the remote starter to see if that was creating a drain on the battery, next morning same thing, no power. I have load tested the battery and checked my charging system and they came up fine. When I disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and touch the cable to the post the transmission relay clicks, is that normal? I don't know if that relay is draining my battery because it seems like it has constant power to it if it clicks when I touch the battery, please help because it sucks having to jump start my truck every morning.
I recently had a remote starter professionally installed in my 03 ram 2500, 3 days later my battery was dead when I tried to use it. I have since taken out the 2 fuses that go to the remote starter to see if that was creating a drain on the battery, next morning same thing, no power. I have load tested the battery and checked my charging system and they came up fine. When I disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and touch the cable to the post the transmission relay clicks, is that normal? I don't know if that relay is draining my battery because it seems like it has constant power to it if it clicks when I touch the battery, please help because it sucks having to jump start my truck every morning.
I have seen this same thing happening on atv's with a wireless remote for the winches. It seems the wireless remote is constantly searching for a signal, even when not in use. After a few days it drains enough juice to shut you down. Since this wasn't a factory install, this could very easily be happening to you, since aftermarket units sometimes don't have the built in fixes for these kinds of problems
#14
01-31-2014, 07:05 PM
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Well after a new battery and taking it back to the installer again they switched out the unit with another one. First day truck started fine, second day, dead battery. I take it back and they can't figure it out, so I guess I have to figure it out myself, well tonight right before I open the door to my truck I noticed that the odometer is on and so is the transmission selector cluster, bingo, I'm guessing that's my problem, it's staying on and not going off when the door closes, well I've pulled every fuse that I think it could be but they will not go off, does anyone know which fuse needs to be pulled and better yet why are they staying on?
#15
02-01-2014, 10:01 AM
Well after a new battery and taking it back to the installer again they switched out the unit with another one. First day truck started fine, second day, dead battery. I take it back and they can't figure it out, so I guess I have to figure it out myself, well tonight right before I open the door to my truck I noticed that the odometer is on and so is the transmission selector cluster, bingo, I'm guessing that's my problem, it's staying on and not going off when the door closes, well I've pulled every fuse that I think it could be but they will not go off, does anyone know which fuse needs to be pulled and better yet why are they staying on?
Not really relevant but as long as it's peeked your curiosity...if you stay in your truck and wait for the odometer to go out and open your door very careful and quietly, you'll hear the stepper motors buzz briefly. I think I am the only one who has ever noticed it. Service manager thought I was crazy and never heard such a thing. I confirmed it with several others on here and its just what they do.
#16
02-01-2014, 03:41 PM
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The odometer does not shut off at all. Woke up this morning and looked through the window of my truck and it was still on. I pulled the 40 amp fuse for the ignition- acc and it went out. I tested the terminals where the fuse goes and it has 13 volts going to it with the key off. But the strange thing is that the ignition works fine and the odometer comes on when I start the truck with the fuse out. I'm going to leave the fuse out for a couple of days and see what happens. My question is, should that terminal have 13 volts with the key off or is it getting power from somewhere else?
#18
02-04-2014, 07:49 PM
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#19
02-05-2014, 09:43 AM
If you're in NJ I can recommend an installer that I know personally and have worked with for a long time... He might be able to help you.
If you need any further help just let me know.
