I am installing a NX proton plus system in my 07 1500 4.7 and need some help with the wiring. I also purchased a NX GenX2 acc kit (which includes a purge kit, FPSS, bottle heater and miscellaneous parts), MSD 8969 window switch, MSD 8913, tach driver, billet bottle bracket, and I'm about to purchase a tps activation switch instead of using the mechanical WOT micro switch.

The problem I'm having is trying to figure out how to get a good clean tach signal. I have read that I won't be able to connect to a single coil or injector bc the injectors and coils are on the same circuit. Autometer says that on our trucks you have to splice all 8 coils and basically make a harness to connect the tach adapter to the window switch on their 9117 tach adapter. According to MSD one tech says it will work off of one coil and another that's no longer there posted on their forum that you have to cut all of the coils to make it work.

Below is the thread on MSD forum that someone started years ago that I brought back to life and didn't get an educated answer. I also included the instructions for the Autometer 9117 and my coil and injector wiring diagram on that forum. Here is a link to summit with the MSD 8913 institutions as well. As you will see autometer shows instructions for Dodge but MSD doesn't.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8913

https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1399

 

Bump. Where's Izero when you need him....

 

I've gotta think about this one..... It's not a simple install...

 

You should be able to tap the Tach wire at the PCM... it should be A Dark Blue w/ Gray Stripe.....

That should save you from having to tap each and every Coil (+) Wire.... But I can't 100% promise that it will work as intended, but in theory it should.

I'm not sure why you would need the Tach Driver for, as the 8969 Digital RPM Window Switch accepts PCM Signals so that Tach Wire at the PCM should be all it needs as far as a hook-up to work as intended.

So Wire it like this:

Window Switch Side ----to---- PCM/Nitrous/Etc.

White Signal Wire to Dark Blue w/ Gray Stripe Tach Wire @ PCM

Red 12+ Volt Power (I suggest adding a Fuse) to Battery + (You can also run this through a Relay and a Switch in the Cab so you can turn the Nitrous on and Off from inside the cab.)

Yellow (NO) Wire to a 12V Lamp of Some Sort Negative connector (for now)

Gray (NC) Wire to DEADEND

Black Wire to VERY GOOD GROUND within 12" (DO NOT USE - Battery Terminal)

Wire the 12V Lamp to the battery on a fuse and place the lamp somewhere you can see it while driving.

Do the Setup Procedure on the window switch, Set your desired On and Off points on the Window Switch and take the truck for a drive. (oh and don't forget to securely mount that switch somewhere somehow...)

The 12V Lamp should turn ON & Off at your Desired Set Points.... this will verify that the Tach wire you tapped is working as you want it to. If it doesn't turn on when you wanted it to then you might want to wire it to each and every + Coil wire....

That should save you a bunch of time before digging into your Nitrous kit....

I wish you all the luck in the world with Nitrous on that engine.... I hope you've upgraded everything inside the head b/c that kit will definitely cause some damage if not....

 

Thank you very much, I knew I could count on you, and sorry if I made you feel obligated to answer this, it wasn't my intentions... I will give this a try and hopefully it will work, if not I guess I will build a harness for the coils. As for the heads I have upgraded pretty much everything... New beehive springs, all new bolts(to include camshaft cap bolts, new lash adjusters, HO cams, valve seats, competition valve job, back cut valves, port and polish, machined to ensure flatness, and I'm sure there's more. I'm going to start with a 50hp shot and depending on how that goes maybe 75 or 100.

 

I'd stick with the 50 Shot with that setup until you get around to upgrading the bottom end...

My only thought is that you're going to have change PCM Mapping (Tunes) for when you're on the bottle and again when you're off of it... I'm not sure how much of a pain in the *** that is with the Diablo Trinity.

Reason I say this is b/c the Nitrous is going to need way different timing, and if you run the truck off the bottle with the Nitrous tune on there at WOT you might have a really bad knock (detonation).... so just be careful!

Post videos as soon as it's done too... I wanna see that truck haul some ***!

 

I haven't had a chance to update my signature lately and don't have enough room to list everything so I updated it with the important stuff. I am custom tuned with SCT by Flyin Ryan now and he's going to write me a custom tune for nitrous. I also picked up a step colder and two steps colder plugs both NGK racing plugs. Hopefully with the nitrous tune and reading the plugs I can get it dialed in.

 

Got a quick question. On my FPSS there is a C (closed) and NO (normally open). The diagram nor instructions say which way to wire this, it simply says connect the relay to one side and the window switch to the other to supply a ground in the event of low fuel pressure. Any idea which side goes to the relay and which side goes to the window switch?