Yeah the only thing I notice with my truck is that it ticks when you first start it up. I figure its one of the manifold bolts probably because it goes away within a few seconds of me driving it. The oil pressure on it has always been right in the middle, or a hair bit above the middle mark. Never ran low or anything. I think its pretty clean.

 

Mine would tick when it was started after sitting for a while and there was a different tick that sounded a little worse in the winter time but it always went away when the truck warmed up. Almost all of these 4.7's do it.

 

My 2001 Durango 4.7 at 113k when I got it had no problems with me jumping into full synthetic. I also use Mobil 1 full synthetic with a Mobil 1 filter. My oil change intervals were 5-6k. My 2014 Ram 5.7, the manual says you can go up to 10k miles per oil change. But don't take it to the dealer, they'll charge you $95 for a synthetic oil change.

*edit*
Also, if you have a leak with standard oil, you will definitely have an oil leak with synthetic. Hammer already hit that point though.

 

Iv never had any usage with any oil in this truck. That does concern me though if there is a weak seal thats held together with junk that the new oil will clean out.. Well yeah.. haha I might just keep using a blend oil.

 

It's just one of those peace of mind things, I've seen full synthetics flush crap too well too fast, but I would agree this is more a danger with engines with a higher sludge buildup - it CAN plug the screen. Will it, probably not. But I always run the mix for a couple thousand miles before before the switch to a full synthetic.

There's also nothing wrong with just switching to a high mileage blend from here on out. It is afterall what it's made for. You should just change a bit sooner than with a full synthetic.

I ran full synthetic from 3000 miles on for the he 10+ years I had my 3rd Gen, changing at 5000 miles. Sent three samples after 5k change to Blackstone for analysis. Always came back with excellent reports. My filters of choice are Wix (Napa Gold) or any filter made by Champion Labs (K&N, Royal Purple, etc.)...

 

I suppose I just need to stick with the old motto "IF it isn't broken do not try fixing it" Haha.. Also, is there a legit way to check for sludge build up without dismantling everything and removing the motor?

 

i switched to synthetic in my 06 4.7 the day I bought it with 112k on it, now has 145k and no issues.. I have tried several different synthetic oils and so far quaker state 5w30 was the best at keeping my cold start tick quiet and penzoil 5w30 was the worst at it. Oil changes around every 6k with either wix or mopar oil filters.