2002 1500 Quad Cab Short Bed
190 something thousand miles, unsure if the transmission has ever had a service.

45RFE to 545RFE TCM swap 1.5 years ago


Transmission has been flawless up until a couple weeks ago when it started slipping going up a hill. I could feel the truck sort of nudge backward as it would lose engagement, but ever so slightly.

Over the past couple weeks it's evolved to the following symptoms

1.) Delayed Engagement of drive gears from park (Intermittent)

2.) Extreme slipping when attempting to overtake or accelerate on the highway (intermittent)

3.) Subtle slipping at cruise while on the highway (again, intermittent)


1 and 3 are self explanatory, and I have a video for #2.

For #2, sometimes while cruising if I apply throttle to accelerate, instead of dropping a gear to accelerate it'll slip into neutral and rev to high hell before either a.) Slamming into the gear it wants or b.) I let off the throttle and let it settle back down.

I'll edit this shortly when I get the video off my phone, it's very telling. I'm not sure what burnt fluid smells like, however I do know what fresh fluid smells like and my current fluid smells sort of bad in comparison. The fluid level fine with no apparent external leaks anywhere of transmission fluid.

I do know it's an electronically controlled hydraulically actuated transmission, so it's possible some solenoids are acting up, or a filter is clogged, or god knows what. AT's are black magic to me, way too many moving parts.

With the symptoms I describe do you guys think a simple pan drop filter change would help?

Edit - I should note that I would have no problem dropping the transmission and replacing it if need be. A transmission isn't too expensive. A transmission + Labor sucks.

 

Burnt fluid will be burgundy or black on color. It will smell bad. With the symptoms you are describing. It sounds like it's rebuild time. You could try a fluid and filter change. If its slipping that bad it may not help.

 

I was a little apprehensive about trying a fluid change for this very reason. I've done a lot of dirt bike engine repair and I know that slipping clutches = dead clutches. From pictures I've seen the clutches in the transmission are very similar to the dirt bikes.

 

its the same as bike clutches, once they start slippin its time... if you can rebuild bike motors this is a not a hard task, but NEVER use any old seals, o-rings or gaskets when you reassemble it, check the starter ring for cracks too if it's got them r&r it as well

10 years exp of owning a KX500

 

Nice dude, here's my 1985 CR250R during a rainy day ride at the Coral Canyon OHV park in San Diego

 

man that looks like the best place on earth to ride! 2 strokes live 4 ever =)

 

2001 Durango SLT 4.7 4WD 45RFE? 183k miles. I can put it in drive but when it gets to the point where is should normally shift into third gear, it slips and goes into low. I can shift down into 2nd and drive it fine granted I keep it under 45. There aren't any clunks, clanks or clicks and no starting or driving issues in any other gear. Also getting a P0108 and 0455 codes. Where do I start? I have changed the fluid (mopar ATF4) and both filters since the shift issue. The fluid was read for a change but it wasn't burnt or discolored and the bottom of the pan was fairly clean. Any help would be great since the transmission shop is booked up for the next two weeks and I'd rather not drive in 2nd gear for much longer.

 

Sounds like the torque converter not locking up. May be time for a new one. I'd take it to an independent trans shop and have them connect their reader to it and drive it to make sure. I did this with my 02 and saved some bucks. Try logging into the Durango Forum for further help. Good luck.

SJ03

 

Thanks I did that and got the same codes from them that I had from cel key dance. I had some clutches burn up as a result of it being in limp in mode. I replaced all the clutch packs and seals...now to figure out why it went into limp in mode to begin with. It's something with the OD clutch pressure switch in the valve body so either a replacement solinoid or new valve body depending on how curious I am to figure it out? 🙄