Rust in rear wheel wells
I spray myself using a cheap undercoating gun. I bought a hose attachment many years ago from Napa to spray the inside of doors, tailgate, fenders, rockers and quarter panels.
I spray the entire under body of truck. Go easy on hood. Oil will eventually get on windshield and cause wiper issues. Even highway driving in heavy rain storms will cause issues. Probably don't even need to do hood.
If you ever have your front wheel well liners off this is a perfect time to spray inside the fenders. Other wise you have to use the hose attachment.
Drill doors to get easy access and spray inside. (pic attached) The rockers have 5??? holes already there. My truck has rubber plugs in them. Newer trucks have aluminum tape covering them. So easy to do there. The rear quarters and wheel wells I spray from on top of the bed as well as the bottom. I make sure this area is done well.
Use the attachment again up around the tail lights. Tail gate has holes already so spray inside as well.
That's pretty much what I do.
I have been cheating the last couple of years. Getting old and lazy I guess! My focus now is on the rear quarter panels and rear wheel wells, doors, rockers and tailgate.
The down side to oil spray is in areas that use sand. The sand will stick to the oil and build up over the years. Also a nuisance for the repair person. But it clearly works!
Not a bad a idea to have shop do it first time. That way they can drill the doors etc.
it's very common on the 3rd gen ram trucks as the bed is two pieces that were "pressed" together... the seem is perfect for holding salt and water and rusts from the inside out... most chop shops will charge 1,500- 2,500 per side to correct the issue... patch jobs can be done for less... fender flares will cover the issues for a while.. but they are costly and look stupid unless you upgrade your wheels and tires... drilling and painting bleeder holes will help drain these areas, but the rust will always prevail.. they call it the rust belt for a reason!
I just bought my truck, have a **** poor rust repair job that was done. I am going to probably fiber reinforced glass matt and durabond or another high end top coat and see if that will last me a bit. Plan is to get new side panels and remove/reinstall.
Question:
1.) has anyone tried to zinc coat their beds? I have purchased spray on zinc coatings on my old chevy truck, never had an issue once coated..
2.) rock guard spray before paint to give it a tough coating so the rocks and dirt and anything else the wheels kick up will not get it back to raw metal once painted?
3.) Has anyone been geeky enough to try an electronic anti rust device like they use in aviation to keep from having their body parts rust away? (I haven't seen this being discussed so I thought I would ask).
As I was feeling around it seems as though there are bolt/screw bungs on the inside of the wheel well. I have no idea why they are not siliconed or closed up in some way.
I am more than happy with my purchase as it is one badass truck, found out the shotty repairs after bringing her home and the rain stopped.. cab is ultra nice, no rust or crummy rust repairs, just dealing with the bed wheel wells..
Happy to join you guys, you all seem like a knowledgeable bunch.
-Black02CrCb
Question:
1.) has anyone tried to zinc coat their beds? I have purchased spray on zinc coatings on my old chevy truck, never had an issue once coated..
2.) rock guard spray before paint to give it a tough coating so the rocks and dirt and anything else the wheels kick up will not get it back to raw metal once painted?
3.) Has anyone been geeky enough to try an electronic anti rust device like they use in aviation to keep from having their body parts rust away? (I haven't seen this being discussed so I thought I would ask).
As I was feeling around it seems as though there are bolt/screw bungs on the inside of the wheel well. I have no idea why they are not siliconed or closed up in some way.
I am more than happy with my purchase as it is one badass truck, found out the shotty repairs after bringing her home and the rain stopped.. cab is ultra nice, no rust or crummy rust repairs, just dealing with the bed wheel wells..
Happy to join you guys, you all seem like a knowledgeable bunch.
-Black02CrCb
the problem is getting to the inside area between the outer skin and the truck bed.. there is a large gap above the rear wheel wells that hold salt and water... it is almost impossible to seal it well enough to protect it from salt damage..
I have bought the epoxy primer from eastwood and it comes with a nice nozzle adapter for "fogging" interiors of frame rails. It makes me wonder if I could use that nozzle to get into that area.


