I was going to start my plugs today..
Well, the coils over plugs are factory coils, and I have probably also answered another question I have asked here, I think its better to pull these coils off with the engine warm not hot but very warm which I tried on a plug about 2 wks ago just to see how hard it would be and what it looked like, it did give me little struggle. when I pulled that plug about 2 wks ago engine was warm also sprayed little not much lubricant to tried and loosen it up but it did pop off.

I pulled one off now to start changing them...cold engine and part of the coil came apart still stuck down in that sleeve where the plug is and if im able to get it out in "ONE" piece then its repairable. Getting that out is the trick!!!! I did spray little lubricant down in that sleeve giving it little time to loosen and see what happens. any ideas?????

anyone use this before.. and will it work?? this boot that sits down in the sleeve has a wider ring that sits onto of the sleeve here's what Im thinking if using this tool can get under it it may assit in lefting it out.



https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmu6o0ydak...rSide.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lrw57cg9q7...81%29.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/70f2wiumn4...sSide.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5weka3s3xd...stube.jpg?dl=0
UPDATE: my 2cents experience
OK Got all the plugs in. Took us about - 3 hrs My neighbor came up with a genus idea, he had thought of something to get those boots left in the sleeve due to them be melted on, I had ruin 3 out of 8 boots more about this later If he hadn't thought of this genus idea we still would be pulling on these boots
What he came up with was a Brass Tube 15/32 10in long or so (not xact) also don't use a tube cutter to cut it, it rounds the edge and it doesn't fit over the plug, but you do need a very straight cut edge to it(rough). this allows to cut it
So here's what happens, when the boot is left in the sleeve spray silicone lub in the boot & on the outside of the tube place the tube in the boot and what it does it will slide right over the plug and down "through" twisting and pushing cutting the melted portion. Dont be surprise that its a little hard to get it down at 1st this is why you need a sharp edge to it and twisting. Once you break through it, you will leave behind the little spring magnet to get it. What we did was to measure/mark from top of the boot just before the end of it, mark it on the tube. I choose to buy new boots(belden) vs using the ones that came out of there. don't hammer it down twisting is key. once out don't forget to use air to spray that silicone out of the plug tube.
Now, you can still use the same boots, once they come out.
So the driver side was easier they pulled off with some resistance but came off with the boot. Took no time
Passenger side was the toughest to pull off as well as the one in back and it seem like those were the ones that were melted
then I looked at the engine and seen on the driver side that there was ton more room for airflow then the passenager side. This might explain the melted boots. I do believe these were not changed @ 30 & 60k
Also if you sign up for napaonlinerewards you get 5.00 for signing up towards those boots
they had belden 10.80 ea.<< (reservered online price) but they do have another brand @ 6.?? lower quality I am planning to buy 5 more belden and hold on to them when I reach 100k for the next change and will replace the other factory boots. I also plied a very very very generous of silicone boot grease. Again the hard part was pulling these coils up and if you encounter the pass. side back coil hard and it prob. will be once out don't worry about the boot if left in there. its little hard to break that plug use the tube.....ok
Ok, I hope this might help, again my 2cents.
Thank you all for the input and help.

 

Here is first plug I pulled ...looking at this and being so melted on I'm not shut if these plugs were changed at 30k ...

 

is it a wild idea to place a shrink tube over "just" the porcelain part of the plug to keep it from melting again,..or will it melt onto the shrink tube as well. any other ideas to keep this from happening again??

Thanks

 

I didn't get the replies I like to hear what others have to say. The replies are not showing up

 

my new plugs, the silicone end was already stuck to the tall metal ring thing around the plug wire end. Brand new plugs and wires.. and within 1500 miles it was like this, so you can not be so sure.. but have fun getting the plugs out

 

no shrink tube man

 

I need to change my plugs soon, I was thinking of soaking with WD40 for a day or so before removal then coat the porcelain with copperslip so the coils are easy to remove next time round.

 

I appreciate your thoughts and input..


I don't think WD40 will do any good..if you take a look at the pict again look how deep the boot sits on the plug. you would need "LOT" of WD40 for it to even get up into that area and once its melted onto the plug imo I do not believe anything would separate other than maybe a warm engine and some twisting and pulling. Obviously there isn't any solution for this other than pay the piper 1st time round and then silicone it up for next time.

The way Im looking at it now.. is if they are that melted I can only hope they come off easy with very little of the boot being torn off, if not they still have to come off so I'm stuck paying 86.00 for the boots and then coat very generously with plug boot silicone.
Thanks again for your thoughts

 

I appreciate your thoughts..thanks Ohh its going to be fun im sure. its sounds to me that these plugs are running hotter. Im wondering if a cooler plug would work along with silicone

Thanks again.

 

When I replaced the spark plugs and coil tubes, we filled each tube with di-electric grease to ensure good contact from the plug tip to the coil spring as well as preventing moisture from forming and then baking the tube to the porcelain.