Looking for a new cluster buuuutttttt.....
I'm learning quite a bit throughout my experimentation. I'll have some videos to post at some point.
I got the harnesses for the cluster wiring and applied to power to all the power pins and ground to the ground pins and the entire cluster lights up outside of the vehicle. You can even perform the self diagnostic actuator test with it out of the vehicle.
with the needles removed and power applied, the motors automatically go to a pre-determined set point. IE 0 RPM and 0 KPH. The oil pressure and temp gauge also go to their 0 locations.
It's the gas gauge and voltage gauge that may end up slightly out of calibration but even that would be easy to fix if you know the values.
So it's looking like the best option for doing this yourself is to put the gauges back in with the needles off, turn the ignition on (not start) and put the pins back. Then run a self test and see how it's all lining up compared to a gauge that's been left unmodified. IE my original cluster that I'll get video and pictures of before putting it back.
I got the harnesses for the cluster wiring and applied to power to all the power pins and ground to the ground pins and the entire cluster lights up outside of the vehicle. You can even perform the self diagnostic actuator test with it out of the vehicle.
with the needles removed and power applied, the motors automatically go to a pre-determined set point. IE 0 RPM and 0 KPH. The oil pressure and temp gauge also go to their 0 locations.
It's the gas gauge and voltage gauge that may end up slightly out of calibration but even that would be easy to fix if you know the values.
So it's looking like the best option for doing this yourself is to put the gauges back in with the needles off, turn the ignition on (not start) and put the pins back. Then run a self test and see how it's all lining up compared to a gauge that's been left unmodified. IE my original cluster that I'll get video and pictures of before putting it back.
And what would I do about getting the engine hours and odometer programmed?????
To answer the above question, there is nothing I can do about the mileage and hours. It can't be programmed and Dodge won't sennd the cluster back to their company to be reprogrammed.....so it's not possible.
That being said, I've got the overlay replaced and after doing some seriously OCD eyeing up and matching to pictures I feel that I've gotten the needles back to a point where they're close enough to actual calibration that it should work out ok.
my truck idled at 850-900RPM before I took the needles off and once they were removed and replaced my truck still idles at the same point. The speedometer rests at the same point on 0 as it did before I removed the needles and the other gauges all look like they're in pretty much the same spot.
Lets just say it REALLY helps to cut off the wiring harness from the wreckers so the cluster can be powered up and self-diagnostic test can be run outside of the vehicle.
That being said, I've got the overlay replaced and after doing some seriously OCD eyeing up and matching to pictures I feel that I've gotten the needles back to a point where they're close enough to actual calibration that it should work out ok.
my truck idled at 850-900RPM before I took the needles off and once they were removed and replaced my truck still idles at the same point. The speedometer rests at the same point on 0 as it did before I removed the needles and the other gauges all look like they're in pretty much the same spot.
Lets just say it REALLY helps to cut off the wiring harness from the wreckers so the cluster can be powered up and self-diagnostic test can be run outside of the vehicle.
When it's hot, but when starting it up cold it'll idle at 900, then it drops to about 800 after a few secs.
I'm going by what my cluster did before taking it apart
I'm going by what my cluster did before taking it apart