I have a 2005 3500 diesel with 108,000 miles, trying has been babied it’s entire life. It has multiple electrical ghosts. Where you can take the key out of ignition open the door and the door chime goes off as if key is still in ignition and radio still works. That’s problem 1. But it seems to have fixed itself for now. The issue now is I drove it the other day no issues, parked it and today I went to drive it and it’s stone cold dead on the driveway. Thought batteries were dead, nope tested those. Radio works, door locks work, headlights, wipers. Odometer lights up, but no lights to show it’s in neutral or drive. put the key in and door chime works, turn to the acc position and no warning lights light up, none of the gauges move. Is this a ignition switch problem or a steering column switch or a anti theft module. Completely lost on this, ready to burn this truck. Thanks for any advice from the many knowledgeable people on here.

 

I'd start by pulling the codes. If that doesn't help, then find the factory service manual (FSM). The FSM has wiring diagrams and some diagnostics that will give you an idea of where to start and go next, assuming you are good with a multimeter and can work yourself thorough the electrical system. If that is beyond your capabilities, find a mechanic that is electrical system competent and familiar with Mopar.

 

The engine fails to start or the starter fails to crank?

A Molotov repair strategy could hardly be mistaken for babying it... lol

Your (old) chime and radio fault seem like they may have been perhaps some gunk, oil, sticky cough drop from you pocket book or wife's purse had a Jolly Rancher? That can attract dirt and dust and maybe have the 'key in' sensor (picture a little micro switch that the keys' tip will push) if that gets sticky them maybe... I would use an aerosol can of 'electrical contact cleaner' wile rapidly inserting and removing the key... BLAST it then in-out-in-out-in-out-in-out-in-out- followed by a made for locks lubricant like dry graphite. That is why we never oil a lock, the oil will eventually cause the lock to get all gummed up by a dust and oil 'dough'

IS the Check Engine light on? has it been on? Do you know what codes it has??? I forget to ask this regularly on forums, I suppose I AssUme that if it were lit, that the people would say that... but 30% of drivers area used to ignoring that pesky 'Money Light' ( I can smell them on the highway)

Hey, I am curious and would love to help (if I can) Please return and let us know what you find and how to fix it... Even if you end up taking it to a shop and they get it figured out, please tell us what was done.
Cheers!

 

There are no lights on. When I turn the key for glow plugs to warm up, all dash warning lights usually light up. There is nothing, no crank, no noise, no warning lights. Just the odometer number is lit up.

 

Is that (just the odometer) what you would see if (under normal operations) if you were in the ACC position on the ignition switch?
If so, I would try further testing to see if it is the switch...

The electrical contact cleaner description maybe it could get into the switch and make a difference. My favorite is DeOxid but any of the NoFlash (they will dry quick like brake kleen as opposed to slower drying and slimy like mineral spirits) NoFlash type Contact cleaners like CRC (red can) will do.

Perhaps a blast of contact cleaner followed by shop air or a keyboard duster aerosol (upright for gas only)

Thinking it may be the electrical contacts in the switch mechanism. With a schematic, you should be able to 'hot wire' the switch contacts as a troubleshooting step but I am unfamiliar with the security measures and unfamiliar with the deisel RAM,
...but I can assume

If the contact cleaner does change anything, R&R the ignition switch mechanism for reliability, Our dogs hate broken trucks...

Let us know what you find!

 

Daily driver or just a once in a while hauler?
Just happened suddenly or went to use it and...
(how long?)\

Try ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF- see if that reveals anything

 

ya just the odometer under normal operations. I installed a new ignition starter switch, which the end of key barrel lines up with and turns a switch inside it. Made no difference.I heard tilt the steering wheel up and down maybe a broken wire at the pivot point. Made no difference, but that is my next task to inspect all of the wires where they bend. Truck was working fine, parked it and next time i went to use it, its in this state. Truck isn't a daily driver, maybe puts on 5000 miles a year. tows a small bumper hitch camper twice a year maybe 1500 miles.

 

 

Ok, just so I understand, she is part of your camper configuration and only gets driven a few times a year, similar to like a class A motorhome... and the occasional trip to HomeDespot for a pallet of SOD or the help a neighbor move, etc.

You recently hopped into ole faithful and she let you down.

You then did some troubleshoot and decided to replace the ignition switch and nothing changed? (or did something change)

Did you do any swapping around of the relays in the fuse box? Check related fuses?

Where does she spend most of her time waiting to be used? Did you look for rodent droppings or missing firewall insulation...

Under the IPM (or TIPM) Mopar did have issues with corrosion, loose pins, and defect connection. Remove the TIPM (fuse box) fasteners, gently roll it over, and remove the individual connectors, inspecting each one with a critical eye. Use some DeOxid (contact cleaner) to blast clean all the connectors, and then, put it all back together. Start the truck.

Please return and tell the world how smart I am.\
Good luck
Many times it is better to be lucky than good...

 

Oh, after you replaced the switch, did the 'Key IN' chime ghost go away?