Hello everyone...:0)

I have a 2003 DRQC 4.7. I currently use Castrol dino oil and have thought about going to Castrol syntec. What can I get for some input on this oil? Also, what engine flush would be the best to use when I do this swap?

Thanks In Advance

2003 Dodge Quad Cab
4.7 Motor
Flowmaster 40 Series
Cold Air Intake
Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.
Nice Boom Under The Rear Seat...:0)

 

My truck is pretty much the same as yours.

I have used Amsoil engine flushwith the Amsoil synthetic oil and I have had good results.

If you are changing your oil from dino to synthetic you will see just about everyone would recommend you flush the engine.

From Amsoil.com for your truck.
2003 DODGE TRUCKS RAM 1500 PICKUP 4.7L 8-cyl Engine Code N

FILTERS





Oil Filter........
EAO42
AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter


Oil Filter........
51085
WIX 51085 Oil Filter (O)


Air Filter........
EAA176
AMSOIL Ea Air Filter


Air Filter........
42725
WIX 42725 Air Filter


Trans Filter........
58843

[1]


Trans Filter........
58846

[2]
1. 4WD - Spin - on + pan filter together in one kit
2. 2WD - Spin - on + pan filter together in one kit

BOSCH SPARK PLUGS
All submodels:





Plug........
B4418
BOSCH PLATINUM +4 SPARK PLUG
[1]


Wire........

NR
1. Do Not Gap. Gap is not adjustable.


BOSCH WIPER BLADES
All submodels:





Driver side........
B40924
BOSCH MICRO EDGE WIPER BLADE


Passenger side........
B40924
BOSCH MICRO EDGE WIPER BLADE
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
Above 0°F......10W-30
Below 100°F......5W-30[1]
Manual Transmission,NV1500.....GLS[2]
AMSOIL Synthetic Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission,NV4500.....GL-4
75W-85[3]
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
Manual Transmission,NV3500.....GLS[4]
AMSOIL Synthetic Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
Automatic Transmission.....AP4[5]
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Differential, Front 9.25 AA.....GL-5[6]
75W-90
Severe Gear 75W-90
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube
Standard Differential, Rear 9.25.....GL-5
75W-140
Severe Gear 75W-140
SAE 80W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube
Transfer Case,.....AP4
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Fluids
Power Steering Fluid.....AP4
Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Brake Fluid.....HB
Clutch Fluid.....HB

1. SAE 5W-30 is preferred.
2. GLS is a special gear lube, Mopar part no. 04874464.
3. GL-4 synthetic gear oil, Mopar part no. 4874459
or Castrol Syntorq are recommended.
4. GLS is a special gear lube, Mopar part no. 04874464.
5. DaimlerChrysler Corp. recommends that all vehicles with
Chrysler ATS be serviced W/ ATF+4
ATF.
6. Synthetic based oil.

CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Four-wheel drive
5-11 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
Two-wheel drive
6-9 Fittings, 0 Plugs..........LB
Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease
Synthetic GHD Heavy-Duty EP Grease
Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2


CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........6.0 quarts[1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........17.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, A45RFE 2WD Initial Fill..........5.5 quarts[2][3]
Automatic Transmission, A45RFE 4WD Initial Fill..........6.6 quarts[4][5]
Automatic Transmission, 545RFE 2WD Initial Fill..........5.5 quarts[6][7]
Automatic Transmission, 545RFE 4WD Initial Fill..........6.6 quarts[8][9]
Automatic Transmission, EX A45RFE Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[10]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed 45RFE..........15.0 quarts
Manual Transmission, NV1500..........4.6 pints
Manual Transmission, NV5600..........9.5 pints
Manual Transmission, NV4500..........8.0 pints
Manual Transmission, NV3500 2WD..........4.9 pints
Manual Transmission, NV3500 4WD..........4.2 pints
Differential, with 7.25 ring gear Rear..........3.0 pints[11]
Differential, with 8.25 ring gear Rear..........4.4 pints[12]
Differential, with 9.25 ring gear Rear..........4.9 pints[12]
Differential, with 9.25"AA Front..........4.9 pints[12]
Transfer Case,NV271..........4.0 pints
Transfer Case,NV273..........4.0 pints
Transfer Case,NV241 GENII..........3.4 pints
Transfer Case,NV243..........3.4 pints

1. After refill check oil level
2. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid
as needed.
3. DTC'S may be set , reset W/ DRB III, if necessary
4. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid
as needed.
5. DTC'S may be set , reset W/ DRB III, if necessary
6. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid
as needed.
7. DTC'S may be set , reset W/ DRB III, if necessary
8. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid
as needed.
9. DTC'S may be set , reset W/ DRB III, if necessary
10. With ENG at operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in NEUTRAL and add fluid
as needed.
11. Fill no higher then 3/4" below plug hole.
12. Fill no higher then 1/4" below plug hole.

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....25 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....15-25 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15-25 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission NV5600 6-SPD
Fill Plug.....22 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....30 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission NV3500
Fill Plug.....14-20 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....14-20 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission NV4500
Fill Plug.....25-35 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....25-35 ft-lbs


SERVICE INTERVAL
AMSOIL Product Recommendation and Drain Interval Guide (g1490)

OTHER TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS
Mothers® Car Care Appearance Products
By-Pass Oil Filters

 

One thing I forgot to mention, after flushing your engine I would recommend checking or replacing your spark plugs to make sure that everything you break loose in your engine doesnt gum up your plugs.

 

Castrol Syntec is a great oil - one of the best IMO if one wants to use a synthetic that is. Of course I had a friend who used nothing but Castrol dino oil on a Toyota truck that had over 300k miles on it when it was finally wrecked to the point he got rid of it. He did an every 3000 mile change and drove the crap out of it.Never had to go into the engine wither. As far as a flush, unless you just feel you engine is gummed up with crap, it's not necessary. You will find all sorts of opinions about this but basically it all boils down to someone trying to sell you something. If you are going to flush you can use B-12 Chemtool or SeaFoam or any OTC flush, spend more money using a "higher end" productor you can go old school and replace one quart of you engine oil with 1 QT of diesel fuel. I have done this many times on older, high mileage carsand know from experience it will not hurt the engine. Basically all you're doing is putting a "solvent" in your engine to try and remove loose sludge. Assuming the flush works well and you have a lot of crap in your engine, you *may* have to drop your oil pan to remove any carbon that might come loose and get caught inthe oil screen onthe oil pick-up tube. If you see a drop in oil pressure after a flush, this is waht has happened. giving the fact you use Castrol anyway, I doubt you have any major carbon orsludge issues.....

Keep in mind though, if you have a lot of miles on your engine, flushing the old oil and replacing with synthetic *might*start an oil leak. Usually if I switch to synthetic on a higher mileage engine, I will not flush but "step" the oil change process. Replace the dino oil with ablend for about two oil changes and then go full synth on my third.

 

Can't offer any opinions on engine flushes, because i never had one done. But, i can say this, when i switched from Conventional oil, to Mobil 1 synthetic, i had no problems whatsoever. I still use Mobil 1 and find it to be a very good oil. I've mentioned it to others, and when they tried it they discovered that engines ran smoother. Hope this helps.

 

In this day and age, synthetics and dino oil are compatible. Unless there is some compelling reason other than switching from dino to synthetic, an engine flush is not rquired.