Hey guys...
The driver side front CV joint went bad on my 03 Ram 1500. Being so close to Christmas I'm a bit low on cash but I need to get my 4X4 working again, so I'll bare the cold garage to get it fixed...but...

Can I do this job without any special tools? Do I replace the whole thing (The half axle on the pumpkin side and the axle towards the wheel) or is it possible to replace just the joint? Any advice suggestions or diagrams would help A LOT! Do I need to open up the pumpkin or remove the hub assembly?

Please, any advice would be greatly appreciated! Any pictures or diagrams would help a lot! Thanks, Ralph

 

No, as long as it's just the CV that is damaged, it's a standard tools job. But when you get it off it's a great time to inspect ball joints, pitman arm, etc. Some of those will require pullers, etc.
I've pulled & replaced two of them, one on a 'Yota and the other on a Cheby (neither were my truck, but I used my truck to pull both of these outta being stuck off-road).

It's been about six or seven years, but I'm thinking big flat screwdriver, socket set, breaker bar, hammer, anti-seize, and a propane torch (the latter 4 items for stubborn parts). I've only replaced the whole CV axle. Check new vs. rebuilt, we found on the 'Yota that a new one was only $10 more from the same auto parts store.

It's not too bad of a job, you'll find once you get the old one out, the new one going in is easy. Oh, yeah, I'm thinking a snap ring tool too. Not 100% sure, but I think I ran into a snap ring on them as well. If you get into it and get stuck, have a camera handy and PM me with pics. Once I see what you got in front of you, it'll jog my memory better and I can probably help you out...

 

I have not done one on my ram, but I can tell you on most things it goes like this.

remove wheel, remove axle nut (need an impact gun to make it quick) take off nut on ball joint, take off nut on tie rod, use air hammer, or hammer and punch and push in on axle to break free from hub, take crowbar or big prybar and pry out axle from diff.

insert nex axle (C/V shaft) with solid quick shove, push axle into diff, it should lock inplace, reinsert axle into hub, reinstall nuts for tie rod and ball joint, tighten axle nut. bolt on wheel.

 

Pretty Easy Job.. Just did mine about 1 1/2 months ago..
No special tools(like Hammer Said)
easy way for me was to:
Pull wheel
brake caliper, left hose conected and tied out of the way.
took nut off axle
top nut, on spindle
unbolted steering arm
I took the strut out, you prolly dont need to, but it made it easier.
Then you push the axle through the spindle, go under the truck, and
use a big screw driver or prybar, and Pop the axle out..
reverse above to put it back in..
Took me about 1.5 hours

Dont buy at a Dealer.. List price is 229 I think it was..
Go to Mopar Parts America dot Com
Axle price was $156
2 day shipping was $18 vers $14 for reg shipping

Oh and both sides are the Same 06 and newer

http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/par...layCatalogid=0

 

I ran into a problem!!

I thought the job went very well. But now I noticed that the female shaft that fits onto the stub shaft coming out of the pumpkin is not all the way on. I can slide it all the way on with my hand, but then it seems to work its way out, about an 1"-1.5" away from the pumpkin. Is there something that I did wrong that holds the female spline onto the stub-shaft? Does it just need a good push to seat it? HELP PLEASE!!!! In the other threads, people say you have to "pop" it on. Maybe I just need to use some force to make that female shaft stay put...?

Everything else works great 2wd/4wd are good to go. No more noise. I just hear a weird clanking, but I'm pretty sure its coming from the Female connection to the stub shaft.

Thanks for all the other replies....helped me VERY much

 

Yeah you should have to tap it pretty good to get the ring to seat in to its spot on the stub shaft.. Once installed it should be real close to the pumkin, look at the other side for reference. they should look the same once installed, if yours is sitting out further than the other side, its not "set", meaning you have to pop it in..

If you cant figure it out take some pics, it will help us to Help you..

 

You gotta pop it pretty good, but not beat on it. It definitely does not just push on...

 

Thanks! I'll give it a try when I get home. I got in touch with the company and they say that the "snap ring" is already in the female part of the shaft. My hopes are up for being able to get under there and give it a few good taps with a rubber mallet to set it. I'm hoping the whole thing does not have to come apart again. Thanks for the advice...I'll keep everyone posted on how it turns out.

 

OK great...seemed like that worked. I wasn't able to tap it (because I couldn't swing any rubber mallet under there...but I was able to shove it really good. It seems like it seated, so I'm good to go. The only thing that worries me is Before I shoved it on, I saw a ring already on the male stub shaft. I'm now wondering if that was the old ring and the new ring was inside the female shaft not letting it snap on correctly. It seems all good, so I'll just leave it for now...if it pops off again, I'll take a better look at the ring on the stub shaft. If it looks old, I'll cut it off hoping that the new one inside the female shaft will now seat correctly.

One more quick question - When I'm in 2wd...Am I pushing my axles/diff/font drive shaft? With hub that don't manually lock/unlock is my front equipment always spinning? I always thought that the hubs were electronically locked/unlocked...but in 2wd I can't spin my front drive shaft...should I be able to? I checked my buddies truck and his is the same so I guess it correct, but just wanted to ask the question.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

you can't spin your front drive shaft in 2wd because it is still atteched to the front diff. if you put the whole front end on stands and tried the same thing it would spin along with the tires.