Two things:

1. I purchased a 6000K Bi-xenon kit a while ago and was able to get them to work properly using resistors. Just splice a resistor to the low-beam and ground on each factory headlight harness and the bi-xenon kit should work without the blinks and flickers. Only thing is for some reason I wasn't able to get the "lamp out" light out of the dash but that didn't really bother me, just as long as I got the headlights working.

2. I wasn't satisfied with the 6000K color because I wanted more of a stock look than aftermarket so I sold my bi-xenon kit and purchased an $80 Xentec 5000K HID kit on ebay assuming I could do the same thing with my resistors as I did with the first Bi-xenon kit. Now this is where I got confused. I kept both resistors spliced and wired on the factory harness prior to installing the new 5000K single-beam HID kit. When I plugged everything in, I assumed everything would work because the resistors trick the computer into thinking that there is a source connected to the harness producing enough energy to power a headlight when in fact HIDs run on less power. It turned out that the lights just blinked and flickered like crazy, and sometimes wouldn't even turn on. Funny thing is when I turned the engine off and turned the lights on they would go on normally. Now the next step I did was I took off the resistors and just plugged everything in normally. When I turned on my lights, it would blink on and off for a good minute then eventually stay on and warm up to it's natural color WITHOUT resistors. So now my truck has a lamp out light and runs the HID's without me tricking the computer. Does anybody have any input or a way to fix the initial one minute blink before the headlights remain on?

 

That is because the first set of Bi-Xenons you purchased had built in capacitors to prevent any flickering. The resistors is what was causeing your bulb out light to appear and infact did nothing for the flicker as you thought it had done.
Now the new one's you bought are 'El Cheapo's and need the capacitors to eliminate this problem.
Resistors limit the amount of power being pulled through any wire. They don't create an excess load which is what's needed to fool the ecu into thinking you have stock bulbs in the headlights. You need stleast 470uf capacitors. You can get them cheap from RadioShack or order them up online for like $40 per set.

 

So would this work dirty dog?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-B...Q5fAccessories

 

halfway disagree. don't know how the lights work at all, but for any given voltage drop (12V in our case) increasing the resistance will increase current draw. do you know what it is that the truck is sensing that tells it if the lights are there or not? i'd imagine it would be current since voltage should stay constant as long as you're hooked up to the power source.

I think the flickering comes from the truck trying to 'jump' the lights. i may be full of ****, but i remember reading something of the sort somewhere.

 

Take a look at this-----------> https://dodgeforum.com/forum/parts-s...icker-fix.html