Brand new 2010 ram sport sputtering
#1
Brand new 2010 ram sport sputtering
I love me some Dodge. Still have my '98 Ram Sport, 312K, and can't say enough good about them. But, I just bought a new one, and it is sputtering when I hold any speed steady. At first, I thought it was just doing it at lower speeds, because through my town it's 45 mph, and that's when I first noticed it. But started checking at other speeds, 20, 30, 40, 50, and so on, and it's only when I'm holding the speed steady that it does this. When I accelerate, it "coughs" a little, then gets itself right. There's only 375 miles on it. The dealership filled up the tank first. I got 340 miles out of it. 32 gallon tank. (Worried if it's "learning" to get poor mileage). I then put 1/2 tank of 89 in. Still doing it.
Called dealership, service said they may have put 89 octane in by mistake, try 87. They also said that without the check engine light coming on, there's really no way they can determine what it is, even if they drive it and experience it for themselves. No codes to narrow down the problem, so wait and see. Now, I don't know about you, but this seems like one of those **** and bull stories to me, and I'm a little more than irritated at this point. Are they serious? How could there be no way to figure out this problem, as a service tech, with no computer telling you what to do? Maybe they are right, but they can't expect you to buy a new 40K truck and put up with it driving like this.
I'm no car tech, but it seems that if it's only happening at steady throttle, then maybe that would be telling enough? Any ideas?
Called dealership, service said they may have put 89 octane in by mistake, try 87. They also said that without the check engine light coming on, there's really no way they can determine what it is, even if they drive it and experience it for themselves. No codes to narrow down the problem, so wait and see. Now, I don't know about you, but this seems like one of those **** and bull stories to me, and I'm a little more than irritated at this point. Are they serious? How could there be no way to figure out this problem, as a service tech, with no computer telling you what to do? Maybe they are right, but they can't expect you to buy a new 40K truck and put up with it driving like this.
I'm no car tech, but it seems that if it's only happening at steady throttle, then maybe that would be telling enough? Any ideas?
#2
well no. 1 if anything 89 oct. is better to run than 87. its more refined so sound like you service tech is full of it. maybe you should try resetting the ECU by simply disconnecting the battery for about 20 min. i would also the the key in the ON possition to insure that there is absolutely to power stored. if it doesnt get any better in 20-50 mi. that i would next try running the tank low then filling up with 93 oct. and then seeing what happens. GOODLUCK
#3
#4
Yes. The eco light does come on. I guess I do not know what this is. Going to read some more. Thanks so much for the info, but can you tell me the train of thought here? The eco light is on for most of the time, and only goes off when I'm accellerating.
#5
with the hemi you have a feature that when your load lowers to a point it will cut power to 4 cylinders (ie. cruzing on the highway at a constant speed) this allows for better mpg's. when you accelerate the other 4 cylinders turn back on and gives you full engine power for passing or what have you. in other words if you have the hemi, when that "eco on" light is on then you are running four cylinders. when its off you got all 8 my friend. i think what he is saying is that there is maybe some currupted files in the ecu for that feature. two ways to fix it. reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery for at least 20 min. OR take it to the stealership and have them reset it by reloading you trucks software. good luck!
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#8
Put it in tow haul or in 5 instead of D and see if it still does it.
Your feeling it go into MDS Like stated above. In T/H or 5 it won't go into MDS.
This is normal operation for a new hemi. To get rid of the MDS you will need to buy a programmer.
--Hop
Your feeling it go into MDS Like stated above. In T/H or 5 it won't go into MDS.
This is normal operation for a new hemi. To get rid of the MDS you will need to buy a programmer.
--Hop
Last edited by Hop; 11-10-2010 at 01:13 PM.
#10