Turbo for towing purposes
The "turbos do not make power down low" myth is patently false.
Here is a dyno for a stock vs turbo modern push-rod V8... notice how the modded numbers are higher across the entire test range.
http://www.intense-racing.com/pics/d...sStock_800.jpg
If you are chasing the highest possible HP number you will get it by running (an) oversized turbo(s), which will give you lots of lag, poor driveability and a peaky curve. If you size your turbos for a practical as opposed to numbers bragging application you will get little lag, a flat torque curve less peaks but way more area under the curve.
turbo lag is a product of bad tuning, OR improper sized turbos.. or both.. pretty much plain and simple.. it shouldn't exist..
'they' had serious issues in the beginning with using them, and the original short-falls of that lag were real.. they aren't any more..
more to the point, slapping boost on any engine not designed for boost is going to make building and tuning tricky- but it can be done, and it's being done all the time.. it's easier now than ever..
the euro makers designed engines with turbo's in mind- unlike the US bunch who slapped turbos on existing engines to reduce production costs.. I reckon they kinda end up at the same conclusion, but simply because of the engine being 'retrofitted' there are calamities when something doesn't work right, or something breaks.. Not so much with the engines designed with turbos on the blueprints..
anyway, they've came a long dang way.. done properly, there is no lag- you get benefit right off idle.. the curve is consistent and steady... there are several ways to do it.. I've considered a remote turbo, but the issues with burning them up is concerning to me, so I haven't really pursued it..
for towing/hauling- it damn sure helps..
'they' had serious issues in the beginning with using them, and the original short-falls of that lag were real.. they aren't any more..
more to the point, slapping boost on any engine not designed for boost is going to make building and tuning tricky- but it can be done, and it's being done all the time.. it's easier now than ever..
the euro makers designed engines with turbo's in mind- unlike the US bunch who slapped turbos on existing engines to reduce production costs.. I reckon they kinda end up at the same conclusion, but simply because of the engine being 'retrofitted' there are calamities when something doesn't work right, or something breaks.. Not so much with the engines designed with turbos on the blueprints..
anyway, they've came a long dang way.. done properly, there is no lag- you get benefit right off idle.. the curve is consistent and steady... there are several ways to do it.. I've considered a remote turbo, but the issues with burning them up is concerning to me, so I haven't really pursued it..
for towing/hauling- it damn sure helps..
Ok, Yes a 3/4 ton is a better option for towing. However, this truck is dual purpose. Its my office during the week seeing about 25,000 mi a year than my toy hauler on the weekend. Also, since its a company assited truck a 2500 is out of the question considered a gas HOG.
The truck has 3.92 rear end. My concerns on the turbo are as follows:
I want to size it so that I not spooling all the time or running the turbo while cruising down the highway. I also understand that my 2011 has yet to have a turner that can crack the factory codes, is this correct?
Therefore, is there a builder in the PA/OH area that can set this truck up or is it all just a nice dream at this point.
Thanks for all the input so far!
The truck has 3.92 rear end. My concerns on the turbo are as follows:
I want to size it so that I not spooling all the time or running the turbo while cruising down the highway. I also understand that my 2011 has yet to have a turner that can crack the factory codes, is this correct?
Therefore, is there a builder in the PA/OH area that can set this truck up or is it all just a nice dream at this point.
Thanks for all the input so far!



