2009 Sport Brake Rotors!
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 0
From: Ila Georgia
Have seen warped rotors on ever thing I ever handled.Chrysler all,all GM,Mazda,Isuzu,Nissan and ALL of the above have been turned under and out of warranty with no issues.Had to true drums AND rotors on my 1998 Dodge 1500 RC 2wd at around 40k yet at 103k still had factory pads/shoes and no shimmy or pulsation when braking. Had to true front rotors on my 06 Gran Marquis at around 30k.Ford warranty was IF pads shot NO WARRANTY.IF pads better then 50% warranty.That seemed fair to me.Mine were warranty with only the slightest amount cut off them.Still stopping smooth at 48k.
Amateur
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville TN
Been there done that. Rotors warped on my 97 dakota with only 13k on them. Cheap rotors. Ford had a very simlar problem for while there as well.
Rotors and like items are out of warranty after 12,000 miles. They are considered a normal ware item.
Get them turned by an independent brake shop. They should be okay. After I had mine turned I didn't have any problems with them until I got rid of the truck 5 years later. Should cost you around $50.00 at the most. They could have come from the supplier already warped and the problem just became worse as you drove.
Good luck.
Rotors and like items are out of warranty after 12,000 miles. They are considered a normal ware item.
Get them turned by an independent brake shop. They should be okay. After I had mine turned I didn't have any problems with them until I got rid of the truck 5 years later. Should cost you around $50.00 at the most. They could have come from the supplier already warped and the problem just became worse as you drove.
Good luck.
Professional
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: VC, California
Rotor warpage comes from a few sources and the last of these is the most common:
#1: Excessive heat from heavy use (i.e towing heavy loads in hilly terrain, lot's of mountain driving, or track use).
#2: Rapid immersion in cold after being hot. This usually happens when the brakes are fairly hot and you drive through water deep enough to hit the rotors (you do not have to submerge the whole wheel, only about 2-3 inches above the bottom of the rotor can do it) .
#3: Crappy Rotor quality- It's out there, but in reality it's not as common as people make it out to be. Normally one of the other factors mentioned at least contributes to the issue.
#4: (The most common):
Over torqued/uneven torquing of wheels. Watch dealers or service shops use a 1/2 air gun to tighten the lugs. This is much more force than needed and it also is hard to get a consistent torque application using this method. To counter this, many shops use "torque sticks", which are supposed to automatically limit the toque to the correct amount. The issue with this is that they are used well beyond their normal service life and are typically not in the correct tolerance any longer.
I suggest you always have shops torque your wheels with a standard torque wrench (and preferably one that's calibrated on a normal basis, but good luck with that one! The only ones that are calibrated often are ones used for engine work).
#1: Excessive heat from heavy use (i.e towing heavy loads in hilly terrain, lot's of mountain driving, or track use).
#2: Rapid immersion in cold after being hot. This usually happens when the brakes are fairly hot and you drive through water deep enough to hit the rotors (you do not have to submerge the whole wheel, only about 2-3 inches above the bottom of the rotor can do it) .
#3: Crappy Rotor quality- It's out there, but in reality it's not as common as people make it out to be. Normally one of the other factors mentioned at least contributes to the issue.
#4: (The most common):
Over torqued/uneven torquing of wheels. Watch dealers or service shops use a 1/2 air gun to tighten the lugs. This is much more force than needed and it also is hard to get a consistent torque application using this method. To counter this, many shops use "torque sticks", which are supposed to automatically limit the toque to the correct amount. The issue with this is that they are used well beyond their normal service life and are typically not in the correct tolerance any longer.
I suggest you always have shops torque your wheels with a standard torque wrench (and preferably one that's calibrated on a normal basis, but good luck with that one! The only ones that are calibrated often are ones used for engine work).
It is always a very good practice to inspect the rotors before purchase for any obvious damage or concern and also have them true checked before install.
I would NEVER have my brakes serviced at the dealership. It is a specialty item that should always be taken to a Brake Service place you can trust and you usually pay a great deal less. It most likely takes them less time too. Brakes are the first thing on the truck you do not want to have fail.
Champion
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
They will get away with it once but next brake job or vibration you will be out of spec and have to but newones....get it over with now cuz every time you play with the rotor you need to put new pads why not install good stuff, guaranteed for life pay once....kinda like a deductible for each wheel LOL. If you order all the parts yourself from the net and install them yourself maybe that would be cool since that part is not longer under warranty, I wonder if extended warranties cover. My bumper to bumper 6 years in Canada takes over for some of the stuff that runs out in the first 3 years or 60000k . I don't even want their parts, or their service, recently spent 14 hours betweeen 2 dealerships to get uconnect working. BS I pay for their training and Customer service for Chyrsler Canada got me a check from one of them.
