The NGK number that is printed on the side of the plug is Standard LZFR5C-11 you can confirm that on NGKs corp webpage also where it tells you that is a OE only number

But you cant buy it anywhere but Dodge and that number is no good to them. They look your vehicle up by year, engine, model etc. The BOX that they come in is a MOPAR box but inside will be those plugs. Also save your self some trouble and dont even bother calling, NAPA, PEPBOYS, AUTOZONE, ADVANCE, OREILEYS etc etc. That number is no good and they will only ask for your engine, year, model and cross you over to some platnium plug that may or may not work. I am sill looking for feedback from someone that has installed a platnium plug and have it work ok with no codes etc.

 

Me and my shop mechanic installed platiums 49,000 bought from NAPA ... I have about 6,000 miles on the plugs now NO PROBLEMS 5.7 HEMI .. We check the old plugs at 30,000 and they looked fine .... I drive between 3000-4000 a month .... Drive it like you stole it!!
They were not the E3's

 

capsfloyd, what part # did you use from Napa. I am just shy of 30000 miles and want to change them out. Do not want to go to the dealer to get them. Been hesitant about using any other plug since the problems I had with the E-3s.

 

I installed the other bank of plugs today on the drivers side using the OEM plug just as above. The drivers side is harder because of the brake booster but once you pop off the plastic cover on top of the engine it gives you a lot more access. This time before I started the engine up I cycled the key a few times. The first time one of the symbols that looks kinda like a lightning bolt came on but after cycling the key 2-3 times I started it up and all is well. No codes or anything time time.

I am glad to hear the Napa plugs worked ok as that gives me hope to use them next time. This is not a fun procedure and my arms look like I have been wrestling a barbed wire fence. To reach the back two plug covers I had to lie on top of the engine and now my chest even has scratch marks through my shirt. I suggest you use a movers blanket to lay on top of the engine unless you are a lot taller than 5-10 like I am. Even using a ladder I had a hard time reaching the back.

Don

 

I find it hard believing a spark plug caused that host of issues.Have you heard from the plug manufacture yet? How long were the E3s advertised to last?

 

If I remember there were 3 differant plugs they offered .I went with the platiums not the dble plats . I'll look for the reciept and part # today

 

i think a chrysler tech on here said the easiest way to get to the majority of the plugs is to remove the plastic fender well, and go in from there....

 

I dont think that the wheel liner removal would make much difference honestly. No matter what the angle of approach is the heater hose on the passenger side and the brake booster on the driver side are still gonna be in the way.

I would just remove the air filter hose and the top engine cover which is what I did and it makes it easy enough to access.

 

Believe me when I tell you I couldn't believe that the plugs were causing the issues either until I pulled them back out. I don't know how many times I went looking for something else to be wrong. I sent them 2 emails and never got a response back. Was going to send the plugs back but I lost the receipt, just my luck, $100.00 down the tubes.

 

as much as i would like to get "performance" plugs, i think im gonna stick with oem's on this one.. i thought i read somewhere else about someone have electronic interference issues etc. like you did....

and i thought it was just chrysler being cheap....lol.

who would have thought non copper plugs would have such an impact on a vehicles elect. system....