So I am getting the mtx box w/ dual 10's and the amp included states that with the factory head unit you dont need rca plugs. Basically you just need to tap the amp into the left and right rear speaker inputs... Where would be the best place to do this???? I also brought up a diagram that some else on this site suggested. Pretty informative. But what do the dg/lg and the gy/lg mean? I am assuming they mean the color of the wire. I was wondering if some one knew the color codes of these and the easiest way to tap into these. Thanks a bunch. Wes


Speaker wire diagram
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/200...ideosystem.pdf

 

dg/lg means dark green with a light green trace(stripe) gy/lg means grey with a light green trace

 

Do you have the factory sub now? If so, you should be able to just extend those wires from the old sub into the new amp. There is a total of 4 (L+, L-, R+ & R-)

If no sub exists and you are pulling the signal from the rear speakers like originally indicated then you can probably tap into those wires at the B post (between front & rear seats) The molding pulls right off and you can grab those wires before they pass through the body into the doors. I would also remove the doors and physically check the wires going into the speakers to make sure you got the right ones.

Also, I don't know that grabbing just the rear speakers will get you the signal you want. If the head isn't sending full range to those speakers it might be hard to get the signal you want.

I putts around with it for a few days wiring in a JL summing device & cleansweep only to be slightly disappointed to the point where I ripped it all out and put in a new head unit to lead up the new system. Little pricy at the end of the day but well worth it to me.

Those wiring codes work great until you realize that Dodge used the same color combination wires for both the front R + speakers and the Rear L - speakers. Or something like that. It was a mess getting the right ones straitened out.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Very informative. I saw you said "b" post. Between the front and rear seats. Sounds easy as you said the panel pulls off. Where exactly would I be able to find that spot and as always tap into that location and make sure everything was working before permenately wiring the unit. thanks loansinpa

 

Can you do this with the RES radio? Also, where are you getting the remote from? Just an ignition accessorie?

 

Check my signature for info on the speaker wiring diagram and other info on the stereo. Good luck & email me if you have any questions that I might be able to answer.

 

The B post is the one that holds the hinges for the rear door. The wiring from the factory comes up the edge of the floor under the moldings, goes about 1' up the B post then cuts across into the door through the rubber boot. Rather than trying to run wires directly from the speaker in the door then out through the hinge area it would just be much easier to catch the wires as they run into the door. That way you wouldn't need to be drilling holes to run the wires back out through. There should also be enough slack in that area to have good access to those wires.

Easiest to make sure the seat is all the way forward then remove the side molding from the back. Start at the bottom pulling it out and then work your way up. Pops right back in. Just may need to take a small blade screwdriver to fix the rubber gasket that goes around the area.

 

I recently added a amp to new subs with the factory RER head unit. The first advice was to tap into speaker wires with color coding info given to me by local install shop. Well, that gave me no sound at all. Long story short, I ended up ordering a piece from PAC Audio that just plugged into the factory wire harness. The piece gave me front and rear RCA outputs and also a remote wire for the amp. Works good and was very easy install. Wish I would have went that way the first time. I say it's worth a look on their website. It will tell you the exact part # that you need to order. Your local install shop may even have the part you need.

Here is the site:
http://pac-audio.com/

 

So I see the site. I assume I need this part.
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=28

It says Only compatible in vehicles with a premium amplified audio system.

Do you have the premium or just the base model? I just have the base model. No subs from factory. Is this what I need or is this only for the models with the factory sub? Thanks Mt Sport

 

I have a 2009 dodge and am trying to replace the factory 8 inch sub with an amp and two 10 inch subs using the factory HU and wires as input to the amp. There are two positive and two negative wires to the factory sub. Which of the four wires do I use? Or do I use all four in some combination to the amp? Any help would be great.