Orcsatx.com which is offroad concept

Ask for Jason, he helped out a lot, but the owner Darrel is the one to bargain prices with.

I should have the truck back tomorrow for feedback on work.

Procomp 6" $1600

Install with alignment $600

Installed front, rear 4.56 with rear Detroit trutrac locker $2100

 

That and I believe you're supposed to change out the diff fluid after 500 miles, but maybe that's cause I got the Detroit trutrac locker?

 

Has nothing to do with the TruTrac, and it's an LSD not a locker. It's important to change at 500 miles because even a perfectly set ring & pinion will produce fine metal shavings at first, plus the gears are shipped with a phosphorus coating from the factory which comes off within the first couple hundred miles. This coating in the lube acts to break down the lube, so leaving it in there past break-in is not adviseable.

That break-in schedule is suggested, but lots of guys don't adhere to it to the letter. But there are posts in 3rd Gen (and I'm sure 2nd Gen too) where guys have ruined a new ring & pinion set and sometimes the entire carrier by just going out and driving the truck like normal after getting new gears.

The repeated short heatings and cooling rests, which is called "work hardening" are crucial for properly allowing the individual molucules in the metal to bind close together, similar to forging. This is critical as it allows the new ring & pinion to mesh together.

I'd also bet there are a good many posts where guys have blamed bad gears on the install where in fact, they didn't break them in properly and it wasn't the install at all.

TEX, I'D READ THIS ARTICLE IF I WERE YOU:

http://www.4x4now.com/gt0999.htm


A new set of gears that were not broken in properly on the left:

 

just wanted to add metric for my fellow Canadians

Recommended break-in procedure for new gears is as follows:

500 miles = 805 km

500 miles, NO Towing. The gears need to be heated and cooled repeatedly to seat and harden properly.
Rule of thumb here is:

-First 200 miles (322km), no more than 20 mins of continuous driving, followed by at least 20 mins of a cooling

period. Vary your speed/rpms. No more than 45 mph (70km/h).

-Next 200 miles (322km), no more than 40 mins of continuous driving, followed by at least 20 mins of a cooling

period. Vary speeds. No more than 60 mph (95 km/h).

-Next 100 miles (161km), no more than an hour continuous, vary speeds, not to exceed 70 mph (110 km/h).

 

no its the gear set sorry it took so long to see your post i have the same exact set up and the only way to get the gear noise to go away is to get geniune mopar gears, my first set up was 3.73 percision gear with detriots tru track and it howled at 65ish and brought it back and he litterally showed me the milling on the gears and how they are made differently and it cuts back on noise low n behold same tech same shop 3.92 mopars and the noise is gone 65-115-35 NOTHING

 

I have the Yukons in mine and there is no howl anywhere in mine.

 

Update

Been out of state, I have the truck back with all work done. I got the new genuine g2 gears in and have no whine or howl at all.

I'll get some pics up when I get a chance, thank you all for your help and input.
J.

 

 

Procomp 6"
Bilstien 5100 front, Bilstien 5125 rear
37x12.5r20 nitto trail grappler M/T
4.56 G2 gears with DTT in the rear
Measurements for front and rear are 46+" from ground to bottom edge of fender
My wife is 5'4" if that helps

 

You think Mopar ACTUALLY manufactures those gears? How about Richmond and yeah, I've even have shops tell guys they need to use Mopar gears and Richmonds are crap!
It's ALL about the install. Obviously, those Precisions were just off and they just happened to get the Mopars right the first time...