So, my 2010 Dodge Ram has a 160 amp alternator, a 12 gauge charging wire,
and a 14 gauge ground wire for the 7-pin trailer connector.

I want to run my fridge on DC AND charge the battery while towing, but the factory wiring is not going to be able to handle that.

If I add parallel 10 gauge wires to the pos and ground wires, will I be covered ?



( They have the 12 gauge pos wire on a 30 amp fuse !?!?!?)

 

In general, parallel conductors are a bad idea, except for large capacity power distribution, like a building. In your case, the basic problem that you'll run into is the fact that the terminations at each end of the 12 AWG wire will only be rated for around 30 or 35 amps, so even if you piggyback a single 10 AWG wire, or any number of wires, you're still running through the factory terminations at the TIPM and the 7 Pin connector. Your best bet is to run a dedicated circuit from the battery, through a relay controlled by the 12V wire in the 7 Pin connector, to a new connector. Is your breakaway kit currently on the same circuit as the fridge? If so, is that a common practice? I'm not really familiar with trailer wiring, but that doesn't seem like a very good idea.

Current capacity is mainly based on wire gauge, number of conductors, and insulation type. In this instance, the 12 AWG wire can handle more than 30 amps.

 

What nature of RV is it that contains this DC powered reefer? Typically, the electrical option for an RV fridge is 110V AC.

 

So, are you saying I really don't need to run a dedicated 12v line to do what I need?

Yes, the breakaway battery and the fridge are on the same wire, so it will be running the fridge (14.6 amps) AND charging the battery (amps ? yellow top Optima ).

CHILLYPOND: RV fridges run lots of ways. Mine is a typical 3-way unit and runs on 12v DC, 110v AC, or LP GAS. My camper is a little trailer bugger, but has all the goodies.

 

The charging wire also powers the backup camera, and the lights in the rambox, if you have those options. Other than that, you should be able to pull 30 amps from that line. I'm assuming that the terminations at the 7 pin connector can handle 30 amps, but I could be wrong, I haven't been able to find the specifications on that.

If I was you, I'd run a new circuit, like I talked about, but if you're confident that you won't be pulling more than 30A, you'll probably be okay just using it as is.

 

Ironsides: Thanks for the replies.

I don't have the backup camera OR the rambox, so the only thing on that circuit will be the 7-pin 12v pos connector going to the camper. I guess I'll give it a shot and just use it. I usually start out with a charged battery , and also have hookups, so any charge current should be minimal. Seems like I should be staying below 30amps.

I did run a dedicated circuit in my old tow vehicle (Isuzu Trooper), so I could add one later if I get a wild hair.

 

Ack - I follow ya now - brain fart. Apparently the 3-ways are resource hogs when utilizing the DC only option.

Thx