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hid ballast location

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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 12:42 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Cmerritt84
I did not see the part where you said you had projectors installed to keep from blinding oncoming traffic.
Projectors just have a little "eyelid" to cut off the top half of the beam, the lens prevents a little glare too for oncoming drivers. I don't have them but I do have HIDS, might be something I do in the future, but just to let you know those lenses have to be rated for HID temp. If you gonna look on ebay, be advised that most of them are not. You will put HIDS in an melt your lens, and the manufactures will NOT warranty them because of it. Great idea to put projectors in but its not a must, just have to make sure you have them set down enough for you to see and not blind people. Don't have to worry about that with projectors...

Tobyjohnson11...A relay harness does not seem to be necessary with the new rams. Mine are direct right into the factory harness, and I do not have any problems. This all depends on the manufacturer and how they have built their ballasts. HID Extra does not require a harness but others do. Just talk with whomever your buying your kit from if its a must for their system. If it is then you will have to run off the battery. You want a direct power source.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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Yes projectors ARE A MUST with HIDS. Halogen reflectors are meant for halogen not HID. As a result they scatter the light improperly causing blinding glare. SO YES PROJECTORS ARE A MUST WITH HIDS.

Visit www.hidplanet.com sometime.

I happen to be a moderator on that forum.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tobyjohnson11
Im about to get a set from JJ at the retro shop.

Is there an easer way than running power to the battery?
If you order from JJ, you'll get the harness that I posted up in the picture above and just connect it to the positive terminal in the fuse box (pull the cover to the fuse box and you'll see)...the harness fits just perfectly for that and pretty much lines everything up for yah...
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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A harness really is a must guys. It might be "easier" to run without one, but you are then pulling a LOT of power from the stock wiring each time they fire up. The 15 minutes it takes to run the harness helps keep your $700 ECM protected.

Your call though.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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i seem to have run across another problem. i have my low beam hid's working but the hi beams only work properly when the trucks off. i ran separate relay harnesses for each one thinking the hi beam ballast wasnt getting enough power, but still have the same problem. would the day time running lights have anything to with this problem?

thanks
 

Last edited by diesel 2010; Nov 29, 2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 0212353
A harness really is a must guys. It might be "easier" to run without one, but you are then pulling a LOT of power from the stock wiring each time they fire up. The 15 minutes it takes to run the harness helps keep your $700 ECM protected.

Your call though.
Headlights only receive their control from the ECU and the switch in the 4th gens. The power is still pulled from the battery...The only thing that the ECU is apart of this circuit is to actually turn the relay for the power on and off, and to monitor the resistance.

Yes you would be safer by running a harness, but the 4th gen system can take it. Just because the power is not controlled by the ecu just monitored. Besides your going to be pulling less power running HIDs then you will with halogens. The initial ballast startup is high, but after that it would run lower. Unless you run a resistor pack to fool the computer for the lamp out light. Then you will be pulling about the same as a halogen.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by diesel 2010
i seem to have run across another problem. i have my low beam hid's working but the hi beams only work properly when the trucks off. i ran separate relay harnesses for each one thinking the hi beam ballast wasnt getting enough power, but still have the same problem. would the day time running lights have anything to with this problem?

thanks
If you turn your switch to headlights on, do they run at full power? If so then yes. The DRLs are just the high beams on a low voltage. Around 4 volts, usually not enough for the ballast to run. BUT depending on your ballasts, if it has a low voltage sensor on it or not, it might still try to step that voltage up. On mine they do not light, or even try. In which case you need to find a way to turn your DRLs off. Or you need to do a separate relay setup, because the 4 volts is not enough to activate the relay the circuit will be off. Once you turn the switch on it will get its full 12V and send the correct 12V to the ballast. You are not going to want to run that low voltage to your ballast. Or its not going to be able to give the bulb its rated voltage.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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Do your lights kinda flicker slightly and not get as bright?
Now that I think about it, you are running a relay harness so it tells me that your relay coil could be trying to close the contacts. Its using that 4V to try but its not enough to keep them closed.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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well when the trucks not running and i turn on the hi beam light it works fine. if i start the truck and turn the hi beams on one wont light and the other flickers on. and the relay makes a crazy buzzing noise like it not making a correct contact.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by diesel 2010
well when the trucks not running and i turn on the hi beam light it works fine. if i start the truck and turn the hi beams on one wont light and the other flickers on. and the relay makes a crazy buzzing noise like it not making a correct contact.
hmmm....are your ballasts set up that you can go directly to the factory system? Bypass the relay? That will check to see that the ballasts are functioning correctly and the relays are your problem. If that still doesn't work then I would say you have gotten some crap ballasts.

Whats screwing with my mind is the fact that they work fine when the truck is off...with the high beams switched on, it should not matter if the truck is running or not it should still be sending 12V to the ballast.

Do you have a multimeter?
 
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