Ah. Well unless they installed it in a really dumb way, it should just be plugged into the factory plug under the dash.

 

I would tell your dealer monkey`s to first start looking at the connections where they hacked into your wiring when they added the "aftermarket" brake controller and the back up camera.

I`m not saying this is even relevant to your electrical issue....BUT,
My brother had just bought a used dodge truck very recently, and who ever installed the "AFTERMARKET" junk brake controller and junk remote starter in his truck (before he bought it), cut up a bunch of wires under the dash to splice the aftermarket junk in. This aftermarket junk caused his dash lights and gauges intermtten failure on cold starts in the morning(s). His truck was fine after it had been running the whole day, but if it sat parked in the driveway longer than one day, his dash lights and gauges would go goofy. After 10 million trips back to the dealer and they couldnt fix it, he found the problem then fixed the problem on his own by ripping out the aftermarket junk, then re-soldering all the wiring they hacked into, he hasn`t had an issue since.

Alot of people bash on me (on forums and in the real world) about saying aftermarket stuff is mostly junk and you`ll likely have problems. It isnt that its ALL junk per say, its usually the way it gets installed is the main issue i have with it. As these vehicles get more technical today, they are not as easy to install aftermarket items unless done properly. So with saying that, and turnin wrenchs in dealerships for 40yrs, i`ve seen my share of junk and bad installs and had to fix them all, over the years. The ones i loved most was when i would go back and talk to the customer and tell them their warranty wont cover the job due to stupidity....hahahahahahaaaaaa, now ya gonna pay me by the hour to fix your mistakes....hehehehehe

 

I agree with LU regarding the installs. It's happened to me. Any changes to the factory wiring should be done per factory instructions and with factory supplied harnesses or wires if available. If not, you are taking your chances that the installer used the wrong wire type, improperly grounded the devices, tapped into the wrong wire and overloaded the signal or didn't provide the proper signal return.

 

Yes a brake controller

 

I know you guys don't like aftermarket stuff, and this might be getting a little off topic to the thread, but it kinda expands on your guys's posts (I think haha) But as someone who is an electrician and does many interior wiring jobs, along side a licensed guy. I can say its not that bad...NOW by what you guys are describing as "junk" im taking that as poor install, not necessarily equipment. When I do an install its clean proper and I take pride in an installation. I have seen my fair share of messes so thats whats triggering that "junk" term. But thats not an "aftermarket" problem thats an install problem.

Having said that, and REAL licensed installer/dealer, will take pride in their work and of course in next to all cases warranty it. Working on newer vehicles is probably the most stressful when it comes time to "splicing" BUT you have wiring diagrams that come with each module and specific to each vehicle and year. So it literally tells you which wires to attach IF you are unsure. (you should not be but sometimes you need clarification) Anyone who installs it knows that they are not fool proof, but people go to school to learn what they can and what they cant do. This is a risk that all installers face, when they need to modify where they bring power or ground out something for example. BUT they are not going to do it if they are unsure, this is what separates installers from people who just want to put it in and make it work! Thats where we see many problems.

To elaborate on installation: There are so many different ways of doing it, just depends on what the installer likes. Personally I like to use T-taps or a quick splice connector depending on the application. I DO NOT the cheap ones either. It makes a perfect splice every time (providing you have the right size) and does not damage the wire if you have to remove it. I also sometimes will use a loop and solder, takes time but is done correctly and is definitely there to stay (if done right!) Of everything that I have installed, from simple lights, to starters, amps, you name it! I have had nothing come back that doesn't work. And because I followed 1 simple rule, if your not sure how to wire it, CHECK IT and CONFIRM IT, I have had nothing burst into flames or ruin a piece of equipment.

I have seen some very poor installs, in fact fixed many...i have seen things from maurettes to cut wires twisted together and wrapped with tape, or even no tape at all. The worst thing that gets on my nerves is the people who cut it and put them together with a simple butt crimp connector. Sometimes it works but most times your going to have improper sizing resulting in things coming apart. So I agree with you guys on the whole "junk" install thing. A poor install can result in shorts if things are not insulated properly, therefore smoking equipment. You can get surges across equipment. Whichever.

I guess what I am trying to say (with this long thread :S haha) is for anyone whos reading this post if you are at all unsure about what your doing just don't install it. Get a professional to install it, IF something does go wrong it should be covered. AND ANYTIME your buying something used just take a quick peak under the dash. You will be able to tell right away if someone has been under there, which could save you future problems. If you cant then either A)no one was under there or B) a professional was there and pulled old stuff out or installed new stuff properly. Aftermarket is not the problem, it the people who think they can when in reality all they do is hook it up an it works so they leave it the way it is.


*end rant*

As far as dealerships installing that stuff, that should 100% be covered if something goes wrong. IF they installed that stuff and did "hack" it up, they should replace it to your standards.

 

I have a somewhat similar problem going on right now. My interior/exterior lights flicker sometimes. It doesn't do it all the time, but sometimes it's so bad that my headlights almost dim completely to where I can't see if I'm driving at night. I also had another issue reappear. My truck sometimes shuts off when I'm driving down the road...lol! Sometimes it will restart and sometimes it won't. At least not right away. These issues have been going on for quite some time. The dealership has replaced a few things thinking they would fix the problem each time, but they never do. I ended up telling them that I was going to claim it as a lemon if it can't be fixed and I also called the Ram customer service and opened a claim with them. They finally decided to keep it for a few days to troubleshoot the problem and gave me a rental car for the mean time (max care service contract is awesome by the way). They've replaced the alternator, the PCM, the TIPM and the wireless control module and still no fix. I'm not sure what it's gonna end up being, but I'm guessing it could be a ground issue at this point. Especially since it's intermittent. Anyway, didn't mean to ramble on, but this kind of made me think of my situation. Hopefully your issue isn't as much of a pain in the *** as mine is!

 

I just changed my oil yesterday on my 2012 and noticed a very large connector just behind the driver's side front tire just hanging out in the weather with what looked like open connections! Found that quite odd and it seemed it was the main harness heading into the cab. Obviously, mine is about to get coated in hot glue. Might be something worth looking at for you guys with all of these interior controls issues.