I have a 2009 Ram 1500 ,72000 miles , started truck all warnings lights on ,no heater or wipers . Second time this has happen this week . Seems to be intermitten problem , Started the next day after first time it happened everything normal . Took to shop anyway everything checked out ok . Today started truck same thing . Any ideas , really need heater working ,cold here .

 

What does "checked out ok" mean, regarding their explanation? Not ONE single BUS code or anything? How long do your symptoms remain after it starts? What else if affected that you can remember?


At first look I see the "B" Bus and the "LIN" BUS both involved, and IF there are no codes I would be inclined to go looking at power sources, more specifically ignition RUN output being lost for a short time. Since it DOES run, i'm not leaning towards a WIN issue. To save you from a possible PITA experience with someone inexperienced you can do a couple easy things on your own.

Before you do anything...Disconnect the battery, then...

Look for any signs of a "critter" spending quality down time in your engine compartment....

Unseat the TIPM and flip it over, one by one disconnect and reconnect all of the connectors on the bottom of it, while looking at anything obvious like corrosion or terminals in the connectors that appear to be "deeper" than other ones around it.

After the TIPM is back in place, pull ALL of the fuses and relays ONE BY ONE and seat them back in their sockets. Oxidation CAN occur on fuse blades and relay terminals, depending on the environment. By pulling them out and jabbing them back in you can eliminate that possibility.

 

When shop checked truck they said no codes were set and no faults were found ,all voltages were good . However I just finished working on truck . I disconnected fuse box connector and reconnected now everything is working normal again . Will keep watch and see what happens . Thanks to all for your help

 

Seen a couple 2009 trucks with a bad ignition switch`s that was causing this same issue.

 

i assume this modern funky key works the same as old ignition. that said, have seen same problem in my moms ford van she used to have. then she had ignition go bad in her trailblazer and she corrected the tech (musta been funny) when it went bad and they gave her run around. she said, no, its the ignition. they replaced it, all problems went away.

i guess the power that gets cut during crank doesnt come back on if switch doesnt realize its in run?