Apparently it happens often in some areas but I have never heard of a single person around here ever have it happen.

 

It happens quite often around my area. It doesn't matter where you live, most thieves are from out of town. trucks where you can climb under easily without lifting the vehicle are very prong to Cat theft. One of my Co-Worker got his cat stolen on his Cavalier on broad daylight in a Best Buy Parking lot.(we leased some space from best buy for employee parking).

I am glad that more and more newer cars put the Cat closer to the engine, where it is more difficult to access.

 

That Catclamp will only slow them down, not prevent a theft.
What stops someone from just unbolting that thing? What stops the burglar from just cutting a bigger chunk of exhaust out causing more damage and using bolt cutters on the wire?

It's a good thing us gassers have cats that are high up and worthless..lol

 

I was always a dealer service only guy until I began having multiple problems with the dealer. I say "the dealer" because it isn't my dealer. My dealer was a dodge truck only dealership who lost his franchise during the restructuring. It was given to another dealership that already had chrysler and jeep. Every time I picked up the truck I would find something wrong. Cracked windshield, dented bumper, even found it in the service parking lot covered with those little red spiders once. The kicker was when the low coolant light came on after a regular service visit (which included checking and topping off all fluids.) I checked the reservoir and it was bone dry. Thats when I started doing my own oil changes.

My biggest problem is the location of the oil filter. It sits directly above part of the front axle. The oil pours out, hits the axle and splatters every where. Anyone have a good solution for getting the oil filter off cleanly?

 

hey Mean Joe, I'd love to hear the answer to that as well. Wish they had put the oil filter on the Hemi where it is on the 4.7. That one was a dream to change.

 

I loosen the filler. cap, then let the pan drip for at least 15 minutes and then crack the filter loose about 1/2 a turn. I lift the front end with a floor jack so that I can get both of my arms underneath and both reach the filter at the same time. I place a gallon freezer bag up and around the filter up against the block and using both hands loosen the filter until the oil drips out into the bag. I keep going and anticipate the filter coming off so I catch it in the bag. Works most of the time, I keep a rag handy for the rest of the times.

 

No reason to loosen the fill cap when draining your oil. The top of the engine (valve covers) are not air tight. It's vented. And you mentioned letting the oil drain from the pan before changing the filter. This would have no impact on the amount of oil coming out of the filter.

 

I guess you don't do your own oil changes. If you did you would notice that the oil filler cap has an o-ring that makes it air tight. Venting went away in 1966 with the emissions requirements imposed by the feds thus the PCV. Even the dipstick has an air tight seal on it.

I let the oil drip for at least 15 minutes to let the oil passages in the block drain to the pan. Next time you are at the shop having someone change your oil, when they are ready to put the plug back in, ask them to put the pan plug back in but wait 10 minutes before putting oil in and then undo the plug, you'll be amazed at how much has drained down. Some of this oil is avoided when you pull the filter.

The bag trick works, but since you don't do your own oil changes, it doesn't matter.

 

Touch'e

 

Oh good it looks like we're back off the cat tangent LOL Good info there though.

Like a previous poster said, I doubt the engine is completely air tight but I'd say it helps if you remove the oil cap. And I like the trick with the plastic bag. Two things I'll be trying.