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Brakes are shot at 40,000 miles

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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 03:34 PM
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Default Brakes are shot at 40,000 miles

Discs look like crap and pads either stuck or half worn out.
Is this repair a DIY job or for a brake shop?
Any guesses as to what it should cost with new rotors and pads?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 706jim
Discs look like crap and pads either stuck or half worn out.
Is this repair a DIY job or for a brake shop?
Any guesses as to what it should cost with new rotors and pads?
Doing it yourself, about $200 an axle for OEM rotors and a quality pad(I like Wagner thermoquiet). Check out rockauto.com for the parts. 40k is pretty bad for things being completely wore out my front pad were still 1/2 there when I replaced at 50k and I replaced rotors/pads at 100k.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 08:38 AM
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Driving style determines brake longevity. You can do it yourself using quality aftermarket parts at a fraction of the dealer cost.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Dodge OEM brakes and rotors are generally garbage. I wouldn't use them if they were half the price of aftermarket.


If I had a nickel for all the re-checks we have for noisy materials and warpy rotors.... I stopped doing brakes at work years ago because of this. If I upsell one, I give it away to another tech..lol
 

Last edited by TNtech; Dec 13, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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I've been thinking ahead for my first brake job, was going to switch out all rotors and pads at same time for this setup.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/p3089499/sk...228y2011g139j1

They also have a kit that includes calipers.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/p3091917/sk...228y2011g139j1

(Check for dif kit for your truck)

I'm only at 30k for 4.5 years of ownership so I got a ways to go.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2015 | 09:26 PM
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Manufacturers have been "going cheap" on items such as rotors (for many years) by sending them off the line just close to the minimum tolerance. They do so in the name of saving weight for fuel efficiency standards.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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I just did pads at all four corners at 83K on my 2010. The rotors seemed fine, with no pulsation. Pads actually didn't need changing either, but due to a shop that recently replaced my CV joint telling me they were down to 15% I just took their word and ordered pads. They actually were still at about 50%. Pretty easy job overall. I could see the rotor replacement being the hardest part since they tend to seize on pretty badly, especially the rears with the parking brakes inside.

Rob
 
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 04:11 PM
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Replaced my front pads at 125k as they were just starting to make some noise. Rotors were just fine. I purchased a set of top of the line rotors from napa before I replaced the pads because I just figured they were ready but they were not needed. Rears are still good.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 11:33 AM
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Just did it myself at 45k miles. Cost me $250 shipped to my house on rockauto. Had a package with the standard stock rotors and slight upgrade with ceramic pads. Took me 2 hours as it was my first change. All in all was easy. Mechanic wanted to charge me $800
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 00bigmattyc00
Just did it myself at 45k miles. Cost me $250 shipped to my house on rockauto. Had a package with the standard stock rotors and slight upgrade with ceramic pads. Took me 2 hours as it was my first change. All in all was easy. Mechanic wanted to charge me $800
Don't take this wrong, but ceramic pads are not recommended for heavy duty use like towing. They wear out faster and don't have the heat resistance to fading like the semi-metallic. Just google the manufacturers recommendations.
 
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