Blower Motor Intermittent 2013 Laramie
I have a 2013 Laramie that is having intermittent problems with the HVAC blower motor. I live near Hell in Arizona, so it gets a little warm here this time of year and I would like to consitantly use my AC, not just sporadically. When it works, the blower works on all speeds. When it doesn't it won't work at all. I can hear the compressor kick on under the hood, but will not blow any air. I'm thinking it's not likely the resistor or motor itself since it either works completely or not at all. I have minimal time and tools for testing. Thinking maybe the Keyless Ignition Switch since it controls the power to the accessories such as the climate control. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this issue?
Thanks
Thanks
Update - It's not the fuse, it's not the relay. Full power at the fuse. It's only getting 1.86v at the blower and resistor, regardless of the fan speed set. I'm down to expensive fixes. Anyone have any ideas? Please help
Last edited by Michael Harris; Jul 31, 2019 at 11:16 PM.
take a picture of your console showing the controls you have and post it... I have a 2014 and I found that different models have different ***** to control HVAC and different parts that control those functions...
What are you using as your ground reference when measuring voltage at the blower motor? Power is provided to the blower motor directly via the fuse and blower motor relay. Speed selection is via the ground to the blower motor. If you are measuring across the motor to determine only 1.86VDC then measure relative to a good chassis ground. The dark blue wire at the blower motor is the power feed, so red meter lead on dark blue wire and black meter lead to good ground. If you're still getting 1.86VDC, then the issue is most likely with a connection between the battery and the blower motor. If you now read battery voltage, then you need to study the wiring between the blower motor yellow wire and the path to ground. The manual climate controls with a blower motor resistor bypass the resistor when the fan speed is set to High. So if no speeds work, it's probably also not the resistor block.
-Rod
-Rod
There appears to be a common problem with the connector into the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (aka TIPM apparently) for the fan power supply. It is a 1/4" spade connector on a #12 wire that is cavity 21 of connector C7. The connector seems to become loose, then heats up making it looser. If you're lucky, all that happens is the connections breaks. If you're not so lucky, the heat from the bad connection will melt and deform the C7 connector body making repair much more difficult.
On my truck the blower would work ok most days, but if I had it on full blast for a long time it would quit. A few days later it would work again until I ran it long and hard.
I've seen several versions of this problem on various forums, including people who've spent a bundle doing parts swapping (including the PDC) to no avail.
To fix it I removed the PDC cover, popped the PDC from its case, and unplugged the C7 connector (directly below the blower relay). I removed the white keeper from the connector (it just pries out with gentle force) and careful inspection found the tab to press to remove the connector from cavity 21. With the connector out, I cleaned it with some electrical contact cleaner, and applied some pressure through the back of it to increase the contact pressure. I reassembled everything and it worked.
Someone has is a video at
that shows the procedure.
On my truck the blower would work ok most days, but if I had it on full blast for a long time it would quit. A few days later it would work again until I ran it long and hard.
I've seen several versions of this problem on various forums, including people who've spent a bundle doing parts swapping (including the PDC) to no avail.
To fix it I removed the PDC cover, popped the PDC from its case, and unplugged the C7 connector (directly below the blower relay). I removed the white keeper from the connector (it just pries out with gentle force) and careful inspection found the tab to press to remove the connector from cavity 21. With the connector out, I cleaned it with some electrical contact cleaner, and applied some pressure through the back of it to increase the contact pressure. I reassembled everything and it worked.
Someone has is a video at







