to anyone that knows about audio ans troubleshooting
ok so i had a alpine type r powered by a mrp-m500 amp in a ported box and it was freakin loud but not good bass so i bought a second 12" type r and another mrp-m500 amp but this time i put it in a sealed box. the box is the perfect size for the subs but now the bass isn't nearly as loud as my single in a ported box. also my new sub doesn't have nearly the excursion as my old one with the same setting on the amps. I also have a problem were when i turn it up but not crazy loud, the bass hits hard then all 3 of my amps including the kicker amp for my speakers go into protection mode. theres also an instance were the speakers turn down really low and the light on the kicker amp dims pretty bad. Ive down the big 3 with 4awg wire but i have the stock battery and the stock alt but i have a dodge ram with the hemi. this is really fustrating becuase i thought for sure the bass would be way louder, not quieter. Also I have two inline fuses on my power wire. is this a problem also all 3 amps are running off of 1 4awg wire to a distribution block were it spits into 8awg wire to the amps. should i ditch the second fuse and replace it with a 1 fared amp. I mean I don't have crazy power going on here so I resally don't think I need to go as far as a second alt and battery and everything. Please give your input in this situation. Please ask questions about my setup and I will post back.
First guess is the impedance is too low. Do you have a digital VOM? Measure the load presented by the speakers to the amp. I suspect you'll find it to be lower than the amps can handle. Amps these days can handle two ohms and higher. Check the manuals on them and see what their minimum impedance can be. Yes, sealed boxes require more power to produce the same SPL.
A sealed sub is NEVER as loud as a ported sub ...
A ported subs cone moves freely as there is no back pressure ...
A sealed box sub has air resistance to the rear causing less excursion...
Amps give me the fuse sizes of each amp you have , or the specs of each , then we can figure current draw/vs the alternator you have ...
Also don't bother with a cap unless you get a 15 farad or larger ...
A ported subs cone moves freely as there is no back pressure ...
A sealed box sub has air resistance to the rear causing less excursion...
Amps give me the fuse sizes of each amp you have , or the specs of each , then we can figure current draw/vs the alternator you have ...
Also don't bother with a cap unless you get a 15 farad or larger ...
Running 3 amps with 4awg/8awg wiring?
I would up the awg from the battery to the splitter to 0 and run 4 to the amps, also when i use to install at Best Buy, the other Installer had the same setup as you, 2x Type R with the same amps. The R's take alot of power.
3 amps and no cap is bad, everytime your R's hit its probably killing the battery and the alt has to recharge causing it to dim/power down.
I suggest getting caps even though the guy above me said not to. It WILL help.
I suggest 1 cap for each amp powering the r's
and up the gauge of the wiring. that 8 gauge is causing those big amps to bottleneck.
I have a 400wat amp and im using 4awg to it i tried 8 and was not that great. I also updated the gauge of speaker wire also. That helps.
I would up the awg from the battery to the splitter to 0 and run 4 to the amps, also when i use to install at Best Buy, the other Installer had the same setup as you, 2x Type R with the same amps. The R's take alot of power.
3 amps and no cap is bad, everytime your R's hit its probably killing the battery and the alt has to recharge causing it to dim/power down.
I suggest getting caps even though the guy above me said not to. It WILL help.
I suggest 1 cap for each amp powering the r's
and up the gauge of the wiring. that 8 gauge is causing those big amps to bottleneck.
I have a 400wat amp and im using 4awg to it i tried 8 and was not that great. I also updated the gauge of speaker wire also. That helps.


