Im sure someone does, not my intent to buy pre-fab. That was the rough cost of the entire project, not just fiberglassing a box. I made these extra stiff and formed just right for these DVC subs. Point is, what was originally intended to be a free project, quickly got out of hand due to wanting more.

Supplies, extra resin, wiring, subwoofers, cap, mdf, luan, carpeting...etc

 

Man who are you telling. A gallon of resin aint cheap. Neither is GOOD filler and other materials. I do all kinds of custom work so I know exactly what you mean

 

That's a very nice looking box but you'll burn your subs up like that. With the seat sitting on the subs like that not only are you tapping heat but the subs also have nowhere to flex which makes them work alot harder. Which means they'll be far less efficient, get hotter, and draw more current. Also note: capacitors are useless for sub installs. They're better suited for your mids and highs seeing as though they draw more continuous power.

 

Looks real good!! Nice Job! I like the looks of those subs, do they sound good?
Here's a pic of mine. All wood though, and not quite as smooth/clean as yours but solid as fu>k




Damn dude. The only nice thing you had to say ended with a negative. Maybe he only plans to run the subs with the seat up? Also, the seat will allow them to breathe somewhat as it's not completely solid, but yeah, it will heat up the subs and mute them a bit.
Caps aren't useless, they just arent as useful as many think and most guys dont size them correctly for their particular system. I personally have a Batcap which is essentially an AGM battery with a discharge rate of a cap. It's equiv to 300farad and allows my alternator to have an easier recovery where as a smaller cap depletes the battery level more.

 

Sorry if I came across as being a bit too negative, but I was just trying to throw out a few pointers and possibly save him money in the long run by not having to replace subs on a regular basis. I'm well aware of what a Batcap is, I just don't see the point. A battery's discharge rate will easily keep up with that system. But I suppose that's neither here nor there and just a matter of opinion to some. I'm running 6,000 watts rms (4k subs 2k mids/highs) with 6 batteries with no real issues. Granted a couple 300amp alts would be really nice for endurance, but my stock alt has no problem keeping all 6 batts charged and has been for 2 years now and that's probably only because driving around at 158db really gets old so I don't have it up all the way most of the time. Usually only to demo.

 

I appreciate your comment but you know what they say, opinions are like ********, everybody has one. Haha. Just giving you guys a heads-up, the seats dont actually "rest" on the subs...the impression of the subs you see on the under-seat is from loose fabric draping down and me load testing the seat trying to see if it would touch, which it does not. There is a gap between the subs and bottom of seat, and there is no loos of sound quality with seat up or down, it all sounds really good without muffling or heating up, as designed.

The stiffening cap was installed to smooth out battery draw during heavy bass moments due to having significant headlight and interior light dimming. Although its only 2 farad its exactly what I needed for my reason. Problem solved, no more dimming, no 5 extra batteries, no secondary alternators. I did what was needed, useful, and complimentary for this application.....it fits my needs and truck perfectly without any issues whatsoevever.
Please remember, this is no SPL truck, i am not competing against anyone. Just a guy who wanted a mild subwoofer upgrade to listen to while plowing and salting roads all night. Mission accomplished!

Happy New Year to everyone!

 

one last question... did you do the big 3 upgrade? because that will help out tremendously with any headlight dimming issues and put much less strain on your alt. the factory wiring is basically enough just to get by with the stock setup and not much more. anyone remember when trucks came with beefed up wiring AND a spot already setup for a 2nd batt? anything to save a buck I guess.


anywho, glad to hear your setup is working well for you. to each their own

 

Big Three is actually not needed contrary to popular belief when running stock alternator!

Stock wire size is capable of supporting the Stock Alternator and battery just fine. Now if you upgraded your alternator, then yes, you'd want to do the "Big 3".
You ground your amp within 3 ft of amp so there's no real need to ground your battery additionally UNLESS you have a ton of accessories grounded to the battery(bad in general)

In short:
Adding thicker wire to your alt does nothing for charging improvement.
Adding thicker ground from battery -chassis does nothing for improvement since it's already capable of supporting stock alternator and components.
Adding a thicker ground strap does nothing either if you don't have a higher output alternator.

You should never ground accessories directly to your battery. If you do, it needs to be fused on both pos and neg terminals AND you'll need to ground your battery with same guage wire in addition to what came with stock.

 

yeah, what do I know... I've only been doing this for 15years....

 

Here we go....alright lets just settle down. I too have been installing and customizing for over 15yrs...degree in electronics engineering and have my own shop, yet chose not feed into your comments. Your both correct to some extent but i know you guys have something better to do than bicker back n forth in the forums. Lol. Have a good day, even you Meph!