now i know this is gonna sound stupid and some people will say get a pro to do it but i wanna learn. my friend has been explaining how to install the subs in my car yet im still a little confused. i just bought two infinity 1242w subs from circuit city. (Subs). i have the basic idea on how to install the amp thats not where im confused. im lost on how to wire the subs inside the box to the amp. the box im getting on ebay (Box). my friend said i need to wire it down to only 2 wires (1 pos. and 1 neg.) or some thing to that degree he said to get this wire to wire the box (Wires). now im confused on how to hook up the subs. the crutchfield website has wiring diagrams but i don't understand them. if any one can offer advise or explain where i am confused that would be awesome. i can get help but i like to do things myself... thats what makes my car "mine"

this is the Amp and Amp install kit in case you were wondering.
Amp
Amp Kit

 

the box you got pictured has 2 wire outs. 1 for each sub. so idk what you want, unless your trying to bridge your amp into 1 signal. if your doing that than run your subs in parallel(+ to+ and then out, - to - and then out)if you run them in series(+coming in to + or 1st sub,- of 1st sub to + of second sub, - of second sub out) you will prob put your ohms up to 16 which isnt good for your amp. i suggest running them in parallel if your going to bridge your amp. if not then just run your crossover before your amp and wire it normal.(left + to+,left- to-, same with right side)


just my .02

will...

 

Here is a website with anything and most anything that you would want to know.

the12volt.com

 

see thats the thing i don't know the right way to wire it i never did it before. i thought u wire each sub to the terminal on the box then run the wires from that to the amp. is that a good way to do it ?

UPDATE
I changed the amp and wiring kit im getting tell me what you think.
Amp
Amp Install Kit

 

When matching speakers and amps there are a few things you need to be aware of. RMS/continous vs Peak/Max power ratings. Peak power is just like it sounds, a sudden hit of bass and RMS is continous bass. RMS is the way to compare. A speaker the has a constant tone(RMS) on it will generate more heat than a speaker that has spuratic(sp) tones(PEAK). This I know well, I had a 400wRMS speaker and put on a 400w RMS amp. During a show and shine, I ran the system at 3/4 power and after about 10 min I noticed the electrical burnng smell. I had over heated the speaker. It developed a spot that would make a scraping sound at anyting over 1/2 power. (the cause follows)

Now for the amp part. When an amp is pushed to its limit it distorts the audio signal. I dont know if you know what a sine wave is, a normal audio signal on an oscillocsope is wavy with nice rounded hills and valleys. A distorted signal is square wave, this is call clipping because it looks like someone "clipped" the tops and bottoms off. This is bad for a speaker, a sine wave will make the speaker move in a nice even manner, a clipped wave will make the speaker want to move then stop suddenly. Now this is happening at 20-100 times a second so you would not be able to see it. When you look at a well written spec sheet for an amp, you will see power levels at a couple of battery voltages, usually 12vdc and 14.4vdc. The average RUNNING car puts out about 13.4 volts from the alternator. This is where I goofed up on the speaker overheating, I used the 12 volt RMS value of 400w, the 14.4 rating is 600w. So at the 13.4v, that I verified with a voltmeter, meant I was putting out 500w to a 400wRMS speaker. Now, the way I think of it is that the last 10% of the rated power is "dirty". So like on my headunit, the vol goes up to 35, I dont run it above 30. This way I will have a nice clean signal. Now some people say that a 1000wRMS speaker powered by a 100wRMS amp is ok. Yes and no, Yes the speaker will handle it (as long as the amp isnt clipping). No, it takes a certain amount of power to get a speaker moving. What would be happening is that you are not getting the most use of your power. It be like driving a car with 1/2 air in the tires, yes it will move, but it will handle like crap. Also running a stereo without power for a long time reduces you supply voltage. Now the amp will clip at an even lower power lever.

So now onto your equipment choices.
Speakers are rated at 1000w PEAK, which means 500wRMS. I found a Recommended Power Range of 300w RMS on a website.
Amp 400wMAX(peak)X2@2 ohms-really means 200wRMS
800wX1 bridged (400wrms)

When you wire up 2 speakers together, you are in theory doubling the power rating. Soo you will have a box that is recommended of 600wRMS.
So no matter how you are wiring it up, with this setup you will be using 2/3 the handling power of the box from the amp. Now if you use the 600wRMS recommendation, you will need a amp that is published "1000w Peak at 12v". This way you will deliver close to the recommended power at the 13.4vdc of the alternator.

NOw these are the boss amps that I would recommend about $30 more than the one you choosed.
This one would get you 580wRMS bridged.
1160w
This one would get you 680wRMS
1360w

To make a final choice, I would call the store up and ask them if the ratings are 12v or 14.4vdc, and pick the one that would be closest to the 660wRMS at 13.4 volts.

Whew, I hope this helps, I have a headache now.

 

GOOD advice! If you're building a system on a budget; always, always, ALWAYS skimp on the subs and direct your money towards the amp.

 

i think i will go with the 1160w its alot more powerful and its not much more expensive where i can't afford it. i have to make the order today to get an extra 5% off so it will save me even more money. so if you have any objections let me knew asap cuz im ordering them soon.

 

Well i went to order that amp and it seems the guys supplier is out of stock so instead he offered me another amp thats better and for less money since the one i wanted was out of stock. this guy was very nice and gave me a very good deal so if any one needs to get audio stuff get it from this guy. www.audioallies.com

the new amp
http://www.audioallies.com/GetItem.asp?Item=RT645

 

The 1400w X1 is a peak measurement, so thats about 700w RMS. This should work out.
This is how I adjust the settings

Leave the BASS BOOST switch off!
There is a varible low pass filter adjustment with some frequencies on it. I would put it at about 80hz and start there.
There should the a gain adjustment. Turn it all the way counterclockwise.
Turn the HU on and then adjust the volume to the loudest that you think that you will be listening to, dont go past 3/4
SLOWLY turn up the gain on the amp until it sounds balanced.
Then adjust the low pass frequency lower until it sounds right, then adjust the gain again to balance.
There should be a "notch" in the gain adjustment, I would not got clockwise past that.

Well Hope this helps ya

 

yeh that does help alot.. i didn't think about tuning the amp so that prolly would have been a problem once i went to hook it up. i might just call my friend up when i do it just so he can make sure i do every thing right. the amp and box are in the mail and will be here next week. [sm=happy046.gif]