1. remove the overflow tank, its only going to get in the way later. All you have to do is remove the cap/hose and pull it straight up.
2. loosen the tension on the p/s pump belt and remove it. Do the same with the A/C belt.
3. remove the mounting bolts for the p/s pump. No need to d/c the hoses, just lay the pump aside.
4. There are a few wire harnesses attached to that side of the plenum, remove them and shove them aside as well.
5. If the front end of the car isn't already on jack stands, go ahead and jack it up.
6. Remove the right-front tire.
(now would be a good time to drain the coolant system and you may as well flush it too.)
7. The splash guard hangs from two bolts and two screw-rivets. Be gentle with the little plastic screws, they strip easily. You also don't want to apply pressure, as that will push them back in.
8. Once the splash guard is off, remove the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). you will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the right socket. wedge the breaker bar in under the frame piece to your left and tap the starter to loosen the center bolt. loosen the center bolt with your hands several turns and then leave it, you will need it there in a few minutes.
9. You will need a Chrysler 3-arm puller. Autozone will loan you one for about 60 bucks. Once you pull the pulley out as far as the bolt is unscrewed, you should be able to pull it off. If not, unscrew it some more and repeat. Put the harmonic balancer aside.
10. Put the bolt back into the crankshaft.
11. Remove the bolts holding the plastic timing covers and set them aside. The timing cover is a three piece set. (remember to always take special care with keeping track of bolts)
12. Put the breaker bar back into the crankshaft bolt and rotate CLOCKWISE until the timing marks on BOTH camshafts AND the crankshaft line up with their respective marks. It is fairly simple to tell where the marks are. There is a small dimple in the gears that correspond with grooves on the engine behind them.
13. This is important as if timing is lost it is a very tedious job to find it again, and failure to do so can possibly KILL YOUR PISTONS AND VALVES as they can collide with improper timing!
14. Remove the two bolts holding the hydraulic belt tensioner. It is a cylinder looking device with a pin protruding out at the belt-facing end. Set it aside.
15. Remove the belt.
16. The water pump is the pulley in the middle directly above the crankshaft pulley. Remove the larger two sizes of bolts first, as this will remove the flange piece as well as the pump.
17. Remove the flange piece from the pump. This is done by removing the smaller bolts. Again, take special care to keep track of them.
18. Clean up the flange piece and block and make sure the sealing surfaces are in good shape. It would not be a bad idea to hit them with a good residue free solvent like M.E.K., then wipe it off good. DO NOT use toluene!! (This would also be a good time to look for any leaks and make sure the engine is clean and tidy down there.)
19. Put a small bead of BLUE atv sealant around the surface of the flange that seals to the pump. (BLUE!!)
20. Do the same on the new pump.
21. Drop on the gasket and put the pump and the flange together and SNUG the bolts. DO NOT tighten them yet just enough the keep it snug and from moving at all.
22. Put a bead of atv around the other side of the flange piece and on the side of the gasket that will seal to the block.
23. Mount the whole shebang back to the block and snug all the bolts down.
24. Torque all the bolts to spec in two stages and in a criss-cross pattern.
25. Put the new belt around the rear camshaft sprocket and clip or GENTLY clamp it there. Go under the pump and over the front cam sprocket TIGHTLY, clip it there too. Go around the idler pulley (the one just under the front cam sprocket), under the crankshaft (TIGHTLY!) and finally put it around the tensioner pulley. It should be a snug fit. If it wont go on, there is to much slack elsewhere. Also make sure you don't move anything out of time while doing this. It may take some time to get just right.
26. Put the hydraulic tensioner in a bench-vise at a 90 degree angle to compress the pin into the cylinder. Make sure you don't put it at an angle and risk it flying out and shattering your face. There are corresponding holes in the body and in the pin that will line up when under the proper compression. When this happens, insert an Allen wrench or similar pin in there to hold it in place. It should be inserted in such a way that you can get it out after remounting the tensioner.
27. Mount the tensioner back to the block. This really doesn't need to be torqued down, just make sure its good and tight.
28. Double check all the timing, and if it's all correct, pull out the pin and the belt will be tensioned.
29. Rotate to engine CLOCKWISE twice. If the engine will not move at a certain place, the timing is wrong.
30. Now its time to put the timing covers back on.
31. Now its time to put the pulley back on. Tighten the center nut down as much as you can before the engine starts moving. When that happens, whack it with a pipe-wrench or something until it stops getting tighter.
32. The rest is the reverse of disassembly!


Installation Instructions for 2.5 V6 Sebring, Avenger:

TIMING BELT COVER

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the accessory drive belts.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.



Timing belt covers-2.5L engine



To access the upper right timing belt cover, remove the power steering fluid reservoir mounting bolts ...



... disengage the IAT and MAP sensor wiring connectors ...



... then lift up and position the power steering fluid reservoir out of the way

Remove the power steering pump with the hose attached and position it aside.

Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan, with a block of wood in between, and jack up the engine so that the weight of the engine is no longer being applied to the engine support bracket.



Support the engine under the oil pan using a floor jack and a block of wood before removing the right side engine mount



Remove the right side engine mount lower bolts from below the vehicle (arrows)



Location of the right side engine mount-to-inner fender mounting bolts



Location of the engine mount-to-engine attaching bolts



When removing the right side engine mount assembly to access the timing belt, this mounting bolt is hidden by the lower timing belt cover



Location of the lower timing belt cover's mounting bolts (arrows)



Location of the upper left timing belt cover mounting fasteners



Remove the upper left timing belt cover



Removal of the upper right timing belt cover may be easier from underneath the vehicle

WATER PUMP

The reamer (alignment) bolt may be heat-seized on the engine support bracket.

Remove the upper engine mount. After spraying penetrating lubricant, slowly remove the reamer (alignment) bolt and remaining bolts, then remove the engine support bracket.

Remove the upper left timing belt cover (closest to the front of the vehicle), followed by the upper right cover and the lower cover.

Although the manufacturer claims that the upper right cover is removable from the top of the engine compartment, it may be easier to remove it from beneath.

Place a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the engine coolant.

This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. To help assure proper alignment at assembly, it may be helpful to set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.

Remove the accessory drive belts and crankshaft damper.

Remove the right engine mount. This requires safely supporting the engine with a floor jack and wood block so the mount can be removed.

Remove the timing belt and tensioner.



Remove the water pump mounting bolts



Pull the water pump assembly off of the engine and inlet pipe



Open the water pump housing and examine for cracks or damage



Replace the water pump housing gasket using a scraper tool



Always keep the water pump's mounting bolts lined up with their correct mounting holes

Remove the water pump mounting bolts.

Separate the water pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pump.

TO INSTALL

Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Inspect the pump for damage or cracks, signs of coolant leakage at the vent, and excessive looseness or rough turning bearings. Any problems require a new pump.

Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-ring with water to make installation easier. DO NOT use oil or grease on the O-ring.

Install a new gasket on the water pump and fit the pump inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the assembly together to force the pipe into the water pump.

Install the water pump-to-engine bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

Install the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Set the timing belt tension.

Install the timing belt covers. Install the right engine mount. Remove the floor jack and engine block from underneath the engine.

Install the crankshaft damper.

Install the accessory drive belts and set to the proper tension.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

Start the engine and verify proper operation, with no leaks.
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Avenger1stGen