2000 Grand Caravan Brakes/Rotors
Well I got laid off, so now I can do a bunch of projects I have been planning on doing but been putting off. I have 2 boys that are really interested in cars so I was planning on helping their knowledge out on working on my beater van. I have a 2000 Grand Caravan 6 cylinder. I was told when I had the power steering done on it that the brake pads and rotors on front needs to be changed. Not sure on the rear brakes yet.
What are things to look for?
Also when I went into the Auto parts store I was said if I had brake pads or brake shoes?
Wasn't quite sure what the difference was, since I learn as I go as well with them. This gives us some bonding time as well, plus makes me feel important, if you know what I mean.
So I was wondering what all tools I need? And a detailed list on how to go about this from beginning to end!
Pretty much know take off the wheel, don't know if I will need a high impact tool. If this goes well I might let them work on the wife's 2000 Ford Windstar since I figures it should be very similar.
Please help!!
What are things to look for?
Also when I went into the Auto parts store I was said if I had brake pads or brake shoes?
Wasn't quite sure what the difference was, since I learn as I go as well with them. This gives us some bonding time as well, plus makes me feel important, if you know what I mean.
So I was wondering what all tools I need? And a detailed list on how to go about this from beginning to end!
Pretty much know take off the wheel, don't know if I will need a high impact tool. If this goes well I might let them work on the wife's 2000 Ford Windstar since I figures it should be very similar.
Please help!!
I would recommend starting with the simple tools. a 4 way wrench to remove the wheels, jack to lift. safety stands are a must, screw driver,pliers. I would recomend picking up a brake spring tool. I have used vice grips for years. they are good for skinned knuckles. I like to go out and purchase a shop manual when i buy a vehicle. it pays for itself in time. regular metric wrench set, should get you through most of the brake job. remember. after changing pads and shoes, pump the brakes up before putting the vehicle in gear the first time. nothing like a little run into another car due to the brakes not being adjusted up.
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I agree with the last post.Get a shop book for your vehicle and read it until you understand what you're going to do.If you have a book open to follow while the old parts are coming off it's a lot easier to put them back on when you finish.
There should be a wear indicator on the pad that's nothing more than a small,bent piece of metal.If this is close to the rotor (1/16 inch or less) then go ahead and replace the pads.The rotor will have the minimun thickness cast into the rotor itself,a look at your new shop manual will tell you where to look.Grooves and cracks in the rotor will also shorten it's life.Small grooves can be machined out,cracks are a reason to get new rotors.I will suggest American made rotors versus the Asian made parts.The metal quality of the American made parts are much better and will last a lot longer.
An impact wrench isn't really needed if you can get a good line of pull on the hand tools.(never push when you can pull on a wrench,your knuckles will thank you) A piece of pipe can be used as a cheater bar and a hammer can be used with a wrench to get a tight/rusted nut or bolt started out.A can of WD 40 or PB Blaster can soak into the rusted joint and help loosen a rusted nut.
There should be a wear indicator on the pad that's nothing more than a small,bent piece of metal.If this is close to the rotor (1/16 inch or less) then go ahead and replace the pads.The rotor will have the minimun thickness cast into the rotor itself,a look at your new shop manual will tell you where to look.Grooves and cracks in the rotor will also shorten it's life.Small grooves can be machined out,cracks are a reason to get new rotors.I will suggest American made rotors versus the Asian made parts.The metal quality of the American made parts are much better and will last a lot longer.
An impact wrench isn't really needed if you can get a good line of pull on the hand tools.(never push when you can pull on a wrench,your knuckles will thank you) A piece of pipe can be used as a cheater bar and a hammer can be used with a wrench to get a tight/rusted nut or bolt started out.A can of WD 40 or PB Blaster can soak into the rusted joint and help loosen a rusted nut.
Check before you spend, because most shops will tell you that you need your brakes done no matter what, because it's an easy sell. And then you usually get told about the sway bar links and rear brake cylinders once its in the air
never trust an air tool when working on a job, never trust them to tighten bolts correctly. I always check the tightness by hand tools after using an impact, especialy when doing wheels.



