It is from Chrysler STAR center database.
It's sorta like Identifix that many scan tool company offers or IATN forum.

 

Thanks, Steak. So if this is a fairly straight-forward failure, is there an aftermarket place that sells reasonably priced new units? Our dealer is quoting just over $400.

 

Not really. And u do not want to take chance on Aftermarket parts on stuff like this.
$400 is consider cheap.
Dont even try to go with Junkyard used one, you will just end up with same problem.
I just did a 04 Nissan Maxima HCU, and parts alone cost $1300.

 

LOL! Pulling a HCU from a car that had rear ended someone would certainly be a bad idea. Hmmm WHy did they rear end them? DId their HCU fail? Anyway, I wasn't going to go with a Junk yard unit, don't worry.

Do you have info on why these fail like this? Have you ever dissected one? WHen I replace this one, I may just have to take a look if that's possible.

 

no idea why they fail. I doubt u can disect it and look. But my theory would be maybe a sticking solenoid, or a bad design causing the pump to create a Vacuum inside the HCU during ABS operation. And eventually, a Vacuum would draw in Air over time. Like how you Vacuum bleed cooling system or Powersteering system.

 

IF air is only introduced during ABS operation, that could mean the pump is part of the problem. It would also explain why we went for months during Summer without needing to bled, then when the weather turned slick, they need to be bled a couple times a week.

The good news is that this rig has really clean brake fluid.

I hope you don't mind me trying to prove you wrong about being able to take it apart. My first guess is that you are right, but I gotta know!

 

OK, the new HCU is in but they aren't bled. I ran the scanner bleed a few times and it was getting better, but I know I need to do the base bleed still. It was a pretty easy job, with the only thing that went wrong was I stripped the one of the screw heads holding the controller to the HCU. They are an inverted Torx or whatever they are called and mine was just a tiny bit too big. I should have used a 4MM socket to get it. Anyway, I just used a die grinder and removed the head and pulled it off form there. No big deal since I had new ones in the box.

I was able to just rotate the lines from the master cylinder to the HCU so I didn't drain the MC while working on the R&R.

The only thing I could take apart easily was the motor. I may try again later.

 

Things are still looking good. No complaints on the brakes. But then again, I'm more likely to hear about problems than about not having problems.

Kind of like an online discussion board.

 

Two months and still GTG.

 

Which bleeding kit do I need to push the air out of the lines