Sooo, I made a mistake. I didn't get a used car from a dealership checked out by an independent party... I see that in retrospect. First the problem and then a little background if anyone wants to commiserate.

My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport has 94800 miles on it. It is making a popping sound whenever I turn the wheels past center. If I am at center and turn to left or right (regardless of speed or at a full stop) there is no pop, but when I come back to center or as I go past center there it is. It seems to be mechanical for sure. I have only owned the car for a day (see below). I pulled over to a gas station to put air in the tires, to see if that was causing the popping issue. When i went to put air in the tires, I realized the hubs of the wheels (the metal portion behind the actual wheel) were so hot to the touch that they burned my hand. The both front wheels were VERY hot, while the back wheels were only sort of hot.

Diagnosis? The two issues related? I assume the wheels should NOT get that hot! Thanks in advance!

Backstory:
I needed a minivan. BAD. I was laid off in May. My wife is working but we have no excess income. On 9/25 I was rear ended and my previous van was totaled. It was a 2004 Chrylser T+C that I liked just fine. The insurance paid the Priv. Party KBB value for the van basically but it was a little less than I still owed, so that all went to the lien holder. I have three young sons and no way to transport them all of a sudden. So I cashed out one of my retirement accounts (which I did NOT want to do)...

I only had 6000 cash to spend. I wanted to buy the newest vehicle I could afford with the lowest miles I could find. I found a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan, that was very similar to the Chrysler we had before at a local dealership (NW Jeep Chrysler Dodge in Beaverton, OR). It had 94800 miles on it. It drove nice the day I tested it. I poked and prodded. But I had my two youngest sons with me (ages 2 and 4) and they were being crazy and I was more focused on getting a good price. This is a dealership I'd used for repairs before and they always did right by me in that space. So after driving it, looking at engine, testing some things looking over options. I paid a litte under private party "good" blue book (pretty good at a dealership I thought.. maybe not..) right at 6 g's not including fees. We drove the van a bunch last night and I never heard the popping sound. Today the problems listed above appeared.

I marched down to the dealership at 730 tonight and demanded they fix the hot wheel problem at their expense. They said they would consider it and to bring van back tomorrow - but reminded me that I signed an "as is" warranty exemption paper. This is true. I did. I have no real legal recourse I'm aware of - although I'd look into it if I have to. I just am hoping they want to keep me as a customer and do the right thing. I take it in tomorrow morning to their service center for them to try and determine the problem. I am unemployed. I told them I will put a sign on the van that they suck and park it outside. In general they were very nice to my face and made all the right noises, but we'll see what happens tomorrow. I had every intention of buying a used Wrangler for the wife from them once I am employed again... she has always wanted one. We'll see after tomorrow..

PS... I would've searched on these two issues - but I guess search function is broken right?

Thanks
Chad

 

Sounds as if the wheel bearing/s hub assembly/s are bad. These cars have the bearing in a hub and you buy the entire hub with bearing installed, not a tough job, but the hubs are around $90.00 each.

 

hot is related to brakes. it all depends on how fast you stopped when you checked the temp. the true way to determine brake drag is to drive your car for say 10miles, slow to a stop using very minimal braking pull over and check then. thats how i determine if i have drag and it's always worked well

bad bearings will give a growling noise and will change pitch as you swerve.

popping noise can be a lot of things. based on the description, I really can't pinpoint something. however I'm confused when the problem is occuring re-read this quote. are you saying if you go from left to right is when it occurs but not from straight to either turn back to straight? if so I'd be looking at steering rack and rack mounts but that's just guess because hearing your noise on the internet is totally impossible

"It is making a popping sound whenever I turn the wheels past center. If I am at center and turn to left or right (regardless of speed or at a full stop) there is no pop, but when I come back to center or as I go past center there it is"

oh and didn't you test drive it before you bought it?

 

I would say that its your bearings. if your hub is so hot that you cant even touch it, i would check them. A common way to check this is by jacking up the front of the van and take one hand and put it on the top of the tire and put your other hand on the bottom and try to wiggle the tire top to bottom. if there is play, normally that would mean that the bearings/hub is shot.

Breaking would normally only cause the rotors to be hot, not the entire hub assembly.

 

im pretty sure hot is brakes and not bearings. every time ive had bad bearings they make a lot of noise. but before even guessing, id agree more info is necessary.

 

Both sides are hot - brakes likely, but not necessarily of concern unless you smell something or can see the heat radiating off them. A hot, seized brake will manifest itself very well. Two brakes seized and two bearings bad at the same time is unlikely. Recently applied brakes could be too hot to touch either the rotor wearing surface or the rotor hat - not at all unusual, I burn my fingers all the time checking them out. :lol:

Your front brakes could be doing all the work and getting hot if the rear brakes aren't adjusted up or working as they should. Your problem may be more rear than front.

As to the poping noise in your steering, don't know, but would check the power steering reservoir anyway for being over / under filled. An overfilled one could be compensating for a "dirty" screen in the reservoir, normally remedied by a replacement of the reservoir.