Front Wheel BOUNCING Excessively
So from all my photos is there a test that i can perform to determine exactly which part is the source of the jounce and creaking noise? Does the stabilizer bar bushing REQUIRE replacement, whereas the link is ok? I can go ahead and replace the link and bushings and even the entire strut assembly but i would rather identify and replace the exact part that needs it. For now it feels like i'm just guessing.
I have never heard any thunk or clunk noise as the articile suggests only the wheel jounce and creaking when going over some bumps.
I have never heard any thunk or clunk noise as the articile suggests only the wheel jounce and creaking when going over some bumps.
Last edited by quantass; Dec 26, 2010 at 01:25 PM.
The bounce test isn't valid on a McPherson strut vehicle. It only works on a shock system.
The only sure fire way to find the cause is with an electronic stethoscope. See article here:
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...ofessional-way. Everything else is a SWAG.
The only sure fire way to find the cause is with an electronic stethoscope. See article here:
http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...ofessional-way. Everything else is a SWAG.
Last edited by RickMN; Dec 26, 2010 at 02:32 PM.
Im with Rick all the way MOOG chassis parts are the only ones I'll use on my own vehicle.
when you have the wheel off and are trying to manipulate joints by hand keep in mind that the contro arm will be hanging low and make everything tight. you need to jack up the control arm to simulate the car sitting on its wheels to take the load off the suspension. as well as you may need a bar to pry on joints as your hands probably arent strong enough.
Pic #1 that gap tells me that there is probably twisting going on inside that bushing
the twist in pic #3 is totally normal
The struts being oily concerns me too they should be dry theres no standard lube on them.
I'll bet the shock has very little oil left in it = very little dampening left.
and the creak is usually control arm bushings or the stabilizer bushings
squirt oil into the stabilizer bushings and see if the creak goes away if so then they are worn out a little too much
thunks or clunks are usually ball joints,
If I were you I'd do the stabilizer bar bushings and a new strut,
as Pete said when you push down on it does it bounce more times than any other corner of the van?
get someone bouncing it for you while you go under it and trace the noise
when you have the wheel off and are trying to manipulate joints by hand keep in mind that the contro arm will be hanging low and make everything tight. you need to jack up the control arm to simulate the car sitting on its wheels to take the load off the suspension. as well as you may need a bar to pry on joints as your hands probably arent strong enough.
Pic #1 that gap tells me that there is probably twisting going on inside that bushing
the twist in pic #3 is totally normal
The struts being oily concerns me too they should be dry theres no standard lube on them.
I'll bet the shock has very little oil left in it = very little dampening left.
and the creak is usually control arm bushings or the stabilizer bushings
squirt oil into the stabilizer bushings and see if the creak goes away if so then they are worn out a little too much
thunks or clunks are usually ball joints,
If I were you I'd do the stabilizer bar bushings and a new strut,
as Pete said when you push down on it does it bounce more times than any other corner of the van?
get someone bouncing it for you while you go under it and trace the noise
Last edited by hemi4spd; Dec 26, 2010 at 03:32 PM.
Update
I refitted the tire then began pushing down on the right side hood. I could hear the creaking noise but my guess is it is not coming from the strut assembly but lower down and a several inches toward the back of the wheel well. Perhaps it is being caused by the stabilizer bar bushing?
Also i did try pushing down on the hood and allowed the suspension to work. Overall it seemed easier to rock this side into a bounce. Once i let go there was a slight bounce but then stopped. On the left side it was more difficult to rock it into a bounce and once let go there was no real bounce like there was on the right side.
It seems like many of you are right about both the stabilizer bar bushing AND the entire strut assembly. The spring looks fine so perhaps i will just replace the strut and keep the coil spring?
BTW is there any danger in NOT REPLACING the stabilizer bar bushing and strut assembly? It is winter and i would prefer to replace them in late spring. Is there any risk in the coil spring breaking if i do not replace the strut immediately? The pricing of strut + coil is quite expensive ($400 CDN) as opposed to just the strut ($50 CDN).
I refitted the tire then began pushing down on the right side hood. I could hear the creaking noise but my guess is it is not coming from the strut assembly but lower down and a several inches toward the back of the wheel well. Perhaps it is being caused by the stabilizer bar bushing?
Also i did try pushing down on the hood and allowed the suspension to work. Overall it seemed easier to rock this side into a bounce. Once i let go there was a slight bounce but then stopped. On the left side it was more difficult to rock it into a bounce and once let go there was no real bounce like there was on the right side.
It seems like many of you are right about both the stabilizer bar bushing AND the entire strut assembly. The spring looks fine so perhaps i will just replace the strut and keep the coil spring?
BTW is there any danger in NOT REPLACING the stabilizer bar bushing and strut assembly? It is winter and i would prefer to replace them in late spring. Is there any risk in the coil spring breaking if i do not replace the strut immediately? The pricing of strut + coil is quite expensive ($400 CDN) as opposed to just the strut ($50 CDN).
Last edited by quantass; Dec 26, 2010 at 08:47 PM.
the only danger is the hopping of the wheel you complain about means its not in contact with the road 100% of the time
struts rarely come with the springs so you would likely be saving the springs to re-use anyways
where in canada are you? if your close to toronto bring it to me I'll swap that strut out in less than 1 hour. you buy the strut (50$one)
dont worry spring will not break.
and will be reused
if you dont buy the strut with the spring you will need a spring compressor to remove and install to the new strut. do you have one of these? (again if your close to me id be happy to lend you one)
stabiliser bar bushings will not jeaprodise your safety at all just make annoying noise,
the creaking noise near the back of the wheelwell is likely the rear control arm bushing
do urself a favour and undo the endlinks and leave them off while your bouncing the suspensio (the more parts you can remove from the equasion the easier it will be to hunt down the source)
struts rarely come with the springs so you would likely be saving the springs to re-use anyways
where in canada are you? if your close to toronto bring it to me I'll swap that strut out in less than 1 hour. you buy the strut (50$one)
dont worry spring will not break.
and will be reused
if you dont buy the strut with the spring you will need a spring compressor to remove and install to the new strut. do you have one of these? (again if your close to me id be happy to lend you one)
stabiliser bar bushings will not jeaprodise your safety at all just make annoying noise,
the creaking noise near the back of the wheelwell is likely the rear control arm bushing
do urself a favour and undo the endlinks and leave them off while your bouncing the suspensio (the more parts you can remove from the equasion the easier it will be to hunt down the source)


