Transmission problem
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: DMS
If you check in the add under Notes this is what it says:
Notes:
Input sideTo test->locate test chart "SU17" in Wells test manual
They have a Wells tester with a manual for testing the sensors. I cannot say as to any accuracy of this tester but they do have the tester and their test showed the sensors as good.
And yes it has already been determined that the check engine light does not give any transmission diagnostic codes, I first asked that question about the blue connector before I realized they had two different connectors. The only thing I am still needing advice on at this point is where I can get a device to check the transmission codes through this blue connector? You say there are 8 different quality scanners that will do this, but where can I get one? What do I need to look for and at what price range just to get something to check the codes? I was checking ebay for this MT2500 scanner and I find items such as http://cgi.ebay.com/SNAP-MT2500-TROU...item4157549d44 for as little as 19.99 and ranging all the way up to items like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Snapon-Modis-Sca...item3f07fe1015
for 6500.00. Obviously I would not need all of the equipment that comes with the 6500.00 price, but what would I need to look for to get just the minimum of what I need?
Notes:
Input sideTo test->locate test chart "SU17" in Wells test manual
They have a Wells tester with a manual for testing the sensors. I cannot say as to any accuracy of this tester but they do have the tester and their test showed the sensors as good.
And yes it has already been determined that the check engine light does not give any transmission diagnostic codes, I first asked that question about the blue connector before I realized they had two different connectors. The only thing I am still needing advice on at this point is where I can get a device to check the transmission codes through this blue connector? You say there are 8 different quality scanners that will do this, but where can I get one? What do I need to look for and at what price range just to get something to check the codes? I was checking ebay for this MT2500 scanner and I find items such as http://cgi.ebay.com/SNAP-MT2500-TROU...item4157549d44 for as little as 19.99 and ranging all the way up to items like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Snapon-Modis-Sca...item3f07fe1015
for 6500.00. Obviously I would not need all of the equipment that comes with the 6500.00 price, but what would I need to look for to get just the minimum of what I need?
Everyone I know thinks the MT2500 is really good scanner for anything older than 2000. So it would be a good choice for you. Often I see DRB2 scanners pretty cheap which work on chrysler stuff pre 1996. No matter what you need a scanner to connect to the blue connector to accurately diagnose the transmissin issues. I've seen a lot of stories about people swapping transmissions because of stupid electrical problem which the blue connector and a good scanner would have solved
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Well, lets face the fact.
run a Diagnostic test at the dealership = $100
Buy a DRB2 = maybe $250, if you can find one.
Buy a MT2500 = $6000
After spending a tons of money and still clueless on what's wrong = Priceless.
I think the cheapest and fastest route to go is take ur car into the dealership.
run a Diagnostic test at the dealership = $100
Buy a DRB2 = maybe $250, if you can find one.
Buy a MT2500 = $6000
After spending a tons of money and still clueless on what's wrong = Priceless.
I think the cheapest and fastest route to go is take ur car into the dealership.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: DMS
Mt2500 wasn't even $2000 when they were new. IDK where you get $6K.
I'd never take a 1991 to a dealer, they'll laugh at you. There's not many shops that will diagnose the problem, so you can take that information and fix it yourself. Afterall a shop has a lot of overhead and they make their money fixing vehicles, not telling people how to fix it themselves.
I'd never take a 1991 to a dealer, they'll laugh at you. There's not many shops that will diagnose the problem, so you can take that information and fix it yourself. Afterall a shop has a lot of overhead and they make their money fixing vehicles, not telling people how to fix it themselves.
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Well, no one has yet to give me the necessary information I would need to get a scanner to check these codes, and if I am not able to get something to check the codes myself for less than it would cost to take it to the dealership, then I am inclined to agree with steak59, and just take the vehicle to the dealer to run the diagnostic codes. I have not checked with them on what the cost would be just yet, I plan to call them in the morning to see. I know that several years ago it was only about 65.00 but it could well be closer to 100.00 today.
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From: DMS
Why a dealership? My school had several types of scanners we used and wouldn't just about every corner garaga have a scanner. I'd think if you're one of them guys that want's to fix things for themselves, you'd just get yourself a scanner. I see them on Ebay all the time for under $400. especially the MT 2500.
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Fix it urself type of guy to tackle a Trans problem is a bit tricky... A scanner hardly justify it's cost, it'll just sit there and collect dust after one use. A $40 code reader or Simple $100 OBD2 scanner is sufficient to fix most drivibility problem for a DIY guy. Once you buy a Scanner, next thing you know, you will spend more money on tools than fixing ur car.
Well, if all you want is the Code, My dealership would read it for free when we r not busy. Or you can Buy an oil change, pull a Mechanic aside an tip him $10, he'll do it, just tell him nicely you don't want to spend a lot of money on an Old car, and you just want to know if it will cost A LOT to fix. (Note, NOT quick lube mechanic, and Ask if they even have the Cable for ur car, because it is probably burried under 2 tons of old equipment)
But when u pay $100, expect them to tell you Almost exactly what's wrong with it, I mean, wether u got a Electrical problem where they need to find a wire, need a Solenoid pack, or tear down the trans.
Honestly, $100 is not a lot, ****, a Parking Ticket can cost just as much...
Well, if all you want is the Code, My dealership would read it for free when we r not busy. Or you can Buy an oil change, pull a Mechanic aside an tip him $10, he'll do it, just tell him nicely you don't want to spend a lot of money on an Old car, and you just want to know if it will cost A LOT to fix. (Note, NOT quick lube mechanic, and Ask if they even have the Cable for ur car, because it is probably burried under 2 tons of old equipment)
But when u pay $100, expect them to tell you Almost exactly what's wrong with it, I mean, wether u got a Electrical problem where they need to find a wire, need a Solenoid pack, or tear down the trans.
Honestly, $100 is not a lot, ****, a Parking Ticket can cost just as much...
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: DMS
I wouldn't waste $5 on one of them stupid code readers. They are totally useless, don't work for OBD1 vehicles, and don't give any more information than the blinky check engine key dance code retreival system. I suppose if you plan on never having to ever fix a vehicle ever again, owning a scanner would be a complete waste of money too. I guess the time I bought an air roofing nailer was stupid. I only used it once. It saved me a lot of time and time is money.. but then if the guy took the van to the shop and was sold an unnecessarry trans for say $1500 that $400 or less real scanner would sure have been a foolish investment? goodness you'd never ever need to use a scanner ever again on a Chrysler product!
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OK, I got the transmission codes and CVI data read today , and this is the results.
The only code that was read was 54 gear ratio error in 4th. Code was cleared and did not reset while doing the test drive. The CVI data is as follows. LR: - 71 (normal 35-83), 2-4: - 64 (normal 20-77), OD: - 149 (normal 48-150), and UD: - 57 (normal 27-70). Suspicion is a faulty TPS sensor or one or both speed sensors, or faulty wiring connected to one or more sensors.
When driving the vehicle home it was working fine till I punched the accelerator pedal the car revved up, then dropped out of high and stayed in low gear. So with this information I am tending to think that the problem may be related to the TPS. I will change out this sensor and give a new report this weekend.
The only code that was read was 54 gear ratio error in 4th. Code was cleared and did not reset while doing the test drive. The CVI data is as follows. LR: - 71 (normal 35-83), 2-4: - 64 (normal 20-77), OD: - 149 (normal 48-150), and UD: - 57 (normal 27-70). Suspicion is a faulty TPS sensor or one or both speed sensors, or faulty wiring connected to one or more sensors.
When driving the vehicle home it was working fine till I punched the accelerator pedal the car revved up, then dropped out of high and stayed in low gear. So with this information I am tending to think that the problem may be related to the TPS. I will change out this sensor and give a new report this weekend.
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: SoCal
Dude you are describing the classic "limp mode" senario. If your van does not have any power leaving a red light - even if you stomp it to the floor - and has to wind its way up to 40mph and never changes gears, then you need to have your tranny replaced and it usually costs about $3200 or more depending on where you have it done.
Blackdawg - I applogize for jumping your thread but I couldn't let this go.
Last edited by Cougar41; Mar 17, 2011 at 03:12 PM.