Problems after changing the tranny
Hi
I`m new to this forum, and not a good mechanic, so I hope you guys can help me out here

I have a Dodge Caravan 1996 3.3 with a broken transmission. I replaced it with a transmission from a Chrysler Town & Country 3.3, wich here in Norway is the exact same car.
Now the Dodge won`t start. It started before the change, and the Crysler the transmission came from was also running great.
I noticed when I was changing the trannys that they were marked on the side with a letter. The Dodge said "C" and the Chrysler said "K", maybe it was the opposite, I don`t remember, but the letters I`m pretty sure of. Other than that the two transmissions was exactly the same.
I dont think I disconnected any wires or anything, so I`m hoping u guys can help me out here. I live miles from any Auto shops, so I have to figure it myself somehow...
I`m new to this forum, and not a good mechanic, so I hope you guys can help me out here
I have a Dodge Caravan 1996 3.3 with a broken transmission. I replaced it with a transmission from a Chrysler Town & Country 3.3, wich here in Norway is the exact same car.
Now the Dodge won`t start. It started before the change, and the Crysler the transmission came from was also running great.
I noticed when I was changing the trannys that they were marked on the side with a letter. The Dodge said "C" and the Chrysler said "K", maybe it was the opposite, I don`t remember, but the letters I`m pretty sure of. Other than that the two transmissions was exactly the same.
I dont think I disconnected any wires or anything, so I`m hoping u guys can help me out here. I live miles from any Auto shops, so I have to figure it myself somehow...
I changed the crank sensor from the original transmission over to the new one, and VOILA! It started!
I noticed on the sensor I replaced that there was some "wear" at the tip of it...
Any clues what that might come from?
But now there`s a new problem...
When i try to put it in R or D it won`t move. After several tries it moved a bit forward, but as I hold the breqak pedal in, it choked.
I also noticed that there are tiny little bubbles on the fluids on the dip stick...
All help is really appreciated!!!
(You have to excuse my bad english)
I noticed on the sensor I replaced that there was some "wear" at the tip of it...
Any clues what that might come from?
But now there`s a new problem...
When i try to put it in R or D it won`t move. After several tries it moved a bit forward, but as I hold the breqak pedal in, it choked.
I also noticed that there are tiny little bubbles on the fluids on the dip stick...
All help is really appreciated!!!
(You have to excuse my bad english)
The tiny bubbles is aeration of the fluid. There can be several causes of this, but you should only concern yourself with one: fluid level. If it is too high the fluid will churn inside the tranny and aerate itself. Aeration is bad because the air bubbles can trap heat and run the transmission much hotter than its is supposed to run. Any other cause generally means its time for a new transmission.
I'm assuming you tested the transmission in the other vehicle before you removed it? You said it ran fine, but did you drive it?
Also, try putting it in L gear and see what happens. Those trannys have a 'limp home' mode that will allow it to drive at low speeds in low gear but you wont have all gears. If a sensor detects a fault, it can activate this mode even if it was simply a wiring problem. This probably isnt your problem, but starting with the simplest and cheapest possible issues is always best. This test is totally free, and only takes a few seconds to do.
I'm assuming you tested the transmission in the other vehicle before you removed it? You said it ran fine, but did you drive it?
Also, try putting it in L gear and see what happens. Those trannys have a 'limp home' mode that will allow it to drive at low speeds in low gear but you wont have all gears. If a sensor detects a fault, it can activate this mode even if it was simply a wiring problem. This probably isnt your problem, but starting with the simplest and cheapest possible issues is always best. This test is totally free, and only takes a few seconds to do.
Last edited by agent00kevin; Apr 15, 2011 at 04:43 PM. Reason: addition
I drove the other car until the day I removed the transmission for the change, and it was working perfect in every way.
During removal of the axles some fluids came out and I haven`t refilled anything, so if anything the level is low. Hard to see on the dip stick. Will check tomorrow with better light.
Will the same thing happen if the fluid level is low? There are no unnormal sounds when I move the shifter trough the gears, and a few times it actually moved a bit...
I thought maybe if the fluid level was low it would also aerate?
I will try and fill some more fluid and see what happens, because in no way there could be to much!
Also when I read the forums, it confuses me which fluid to use... Can I use Dexron III or do I have to use ATF+3?
During removal of the axles some fluids came out and I haven`t refilled anything, so if anything the level is low. Hard to see on the dip stick. Will check tomorrow with better light.
Will the same thing happen if the fluid level is low? There are no unnormal sounds when I move the shifter trough the gears, and a few times it actually moved a bit...
I thought maybe if the fluid level was low it would also aerate?
I will try and fill some more fluid and see what happens, because in no way there could be to much!
Also when I read the forums, it confuses me which fluid to use... Can I use Dexron III or do I have to use ATF+3?
Well definitely add some fluid! That is 99% likely the cause of it not moving. I hope you did not damage the transmission by trying to move it with low fluid. Those transmissions are very sensitive.
You are supposed to use ATF +3 or ATF +4 because Dexron isnt formulated for that type of transmission. These Caravan trannies dont use the standard bands that most older transmissions used but instead a series of valves and actuators. They are so sensitive they can and do make hundreds of adjustments per second based on input it receives from the TCM.
Personally I spend a little extra, and have used fully synthetic Valvoline ATF +4 in both of my Dodges. Its well worth the few extra dollars (or euros) to have the best fluid you can buy in a Caravan transmission. (they are known for pooping on you) I think its even hard to find ATF +3 anymore; I hear it was replaced by a better formulated ATF +4. Things may be different in your part of the world though.
Also, when checking your fluid, you must have the van warmed up and have cycled through the gears from park down to L and back to Park. Do this slowly; let it fully shift into each gear while holding the brake and let it sit in each gear for a few seconds. Technically you are supposed to actually drive it but for starters, Id just add a quart or two then shift it in place instead of driving it. I figure that if the fluid is low, Id rather sit in place then drive it low, possibly causing internal damage. eave it running in park when you check the fluid as well.
Once you get it close to just right, its ok to drive it to get the final level of fluid right. The purpose of driving it/letting it warm up is because the fluid expands greatly when it is cold and is not in all of the places it should be when its sitting still and has not been driven. You'll see two marks on your dipstick; one says full warm and one says full hot. Unless you have driven it for a good amount of time, say a trip to town and back, used full warm as your guide. If these transmissions are even 1 quart low, they will start acting up on you. Since yours doesnt move at all, it may be 3 or more quarts low. Just add a quart at a time and check the dipstick after each quart, and be careful not to overfill it. Overfilling is just as bad as running it low!
You are supposed to use ATF +3 or ATF +4 because Dexron isnt formulated for that type of transmission. These Caravan trannies dont use the standard bands that most older transmissions used but instead a series of valves and actuators. They are so sensitive they can and do make hundreds of adjustments per second based on input it receives from the TCM.
Personally I spend a little extra, and have used fully synthetic Valvoline ATF +4 in both of my Dodges. Its well worth the few extra dollars (or euros) to have the best fluid you can buy in a Caravan transmission. (they are known for pooping on you) I think its even hard to find ATF +3 anymore; I hear it was replaced by a better formulated ATF +4. Things may be different in your part of the world though.
Also, when checking your fluid, you must have the van warmed up and have cycled through the gears from park down to L and back to Park. Do this slowly; let it fully shift into each gear while holding the brake and let it sit in each gear for a few seconds. Technically you are supposed to actually drive it but for starters, Id just add a quart or two then shift it in place instead of driving it. I figure that if the fluid is low, Id rather sit in place then drive it low, possibly causing internal damage. eave it running in park when you check the fluid as well.
Once you get it close to just right, its ok to drive it to get the final level of fluid right. The purpose of driving it/letting it warm up is because the fluid expands greatly when it is cold and is not in all of the places it should be when its sitting still and has not been driven. You'll see two marks on your dipstick; one says full warm and one says full hot. Unless you have driven it for a good amount of time, say a trip to town and back, used full warm as your guide. If these transmissions are even 1 quart low, they will start acting up on you. Since yours doesnt move at all, it may be 3 or more quarts low. Just add a quart at a time and check the dipstick after each quart, and be careful not to overfill it. Overfilling is just as bad as running it low!
Last edited by agent00kevin; Apr 15, 2011 at 07:22 PM.



