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Transmission Shudder Diagnosis Help

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  #11  
Old 12-12-2017, 11:14 AM
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Hi and Merry Christmas to all.
I have a 3.8 caravan ,2007 100 000 kms , or 60,ooo miles.
Ihave had shudder for over 2 years. they wanted to change the trans at one shop, one place said drive around the shudder, which is easy to do by a slight rpm increase. With no noticeable changes for two years or more, is there anything I can add to fluid that might help? Or if it's not broke, maybe I shouldn't fix it?
john m
 
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Old 12-25-2017, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jmack619
Hi and Merry Christmas to all.
I have a 3.8 caravan ,2007 100 000 kms , or 60,ooo miles.
Ihave had shudder for over 2 years. they wanted to change the trans at one shop, one place said drive around the shudder, which is easy to do by a slight rpm increase. With no noticeable changes for two years or more, is there anything I can add to fluid that might help? Or if it's not broke, maybe I shouldn't fix it?
john m
hey,John, my name is michael,
I have a Dodge Grand Caravan 2005 with a 3.8L and am looking for a solution to my problem that is most similar to yours. Driving conservatively while accelerating, the vehicle will shudder intermittently between 25 and 50 mph. It does not do this maintaining a constant speed or after 50 mph to date. I overcome this by being more aggressive with the throttle. If there is help with this I would greatly appreciate a response. It feels like the front end is going over rumple strips, however, not quite as bad.
 
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2018, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dbap
Some follow up and additional Q’s after several more days of driving the van, some checks and fixes, and additional research on this and other sites. Checked and gapped all plugs and checked plug wires. Do not have specs for coil pack expected impedance for each of the six outputs, anyone have these numbers? Pulled throttle body and thoroughly cleaned. Checked IAC, MAP, PCV valve and TPS while I was at it. Tried to run down an external EGR valve but apparently it does not exist on early model year 02’ vans. Cover plates are present where the system should bolt on, but it is not there. Replaced fuel filter – engineers should be shot for the catastrophe of a location. The surge/slip/shudder condition still infrequently occurs and a notable bump up/down appears prevalent during torque converter lock/unlock. Also, another condition now manifests while going downhill - motor (tach) has a notable 600+RMP drop and then almost instant recovery. Happens both in and out of cruise. My uncertainty still revolves around rather this is a computer/motor issue or the torque converter ready to shell itself. When the RPM’s start to surge it almost appears that there are conflicting sensor inputs being sent to the PCM and it develops a sine wave cycle attempting to react to the conflicting inputs. This is why I continue to have reservations about rather it is the transmission or all the computer hooey that runs the vehicle. I have read several similar posts with the primary two outcomes as either torque converter or computer issues/upgrade/replacement. Now the follow on Q’s. How long (and how many fluid changes) should it take for the computer to re-learn itself with the correct ATF+4 fluid? With no DTC’s showing up can a shop emphatically diagnose a bad torque converter? Anything else I am missing and should check? Thanks again for any thoughts/advice.
LET ME SAY i systematicallly changed everything like motor mounts ,struts Rack and then the torque converter okay are you listening ? almost the same a little better WHAT I HAD TO DO I SHOULD HAVE DUNE FIRST are you listening ? IM GOING TO SAY IT on the front control arm there are rubber bushings and guess what they wear out fast with old suspention parts and tie rods and crappy tires just take it from me buy the rubber control ar bushings at least get the back ones there going to be sick as far as the shudder it is affected by everything speed inclination play in steering how is it happening? duh " the front control arms hav two bushing that get wallerd out then the steering wiggles (shuuders ) and everything in between moves thus the van itself shudders PROBLEM SOLVED ITS TO EASY TO BELEAVED change those bushings 25 for two front back control arm bushings yes you got to looes the cradel pan bolts to sandwich the bushing on to the arm shaft (hammer) save yourself a lot of work do what i telling you who am i just buddieboy ps: they will not seem loose when you wiggle the control arm but when you take the strut loose you can pry on them with a jack handle and see how loose they really are
 

Last edited by buddieboy; 03-09-2018 at 09:36 PM.
  #14  
Old 09-17-2019, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by buddieboy
LET ME SAY i systematicallly changed everything like motor mounts ,struts Rack and then the torque converter okay are you listening ? almost the same a little better WHAT I HAD TO DO I SHOULD HAVE DUNE FIRST are you listening ? IM GOING TO SAY IT on the front control arm there are rubber bushings and guess what they wear out fast with old suspention parts and tie rods and crappy tires just take it from me buy the rubber control ar bushings at least get the back ones there going to be sick as far as the shudder it is affected by everything speed inclination play in steering how is it happening? duh " the front control arms hav two bushing that get wallerd out then the steering wiggles (shuuders ) and everything in between moves thus the van itself shudders PROBLEM SOLVED ITS TO EASY TO BELEAVED change those bushings 25 for two front back control arm bushings yes you got to looes the cradel pan bolts to sandwich the bushing on to the arm shaft (hammer) save yourself a lot of work do what i telling you who am i just buddieboy ps: they will not seem loose when you wiggle the control arm but when you take the strut loose you can pry on them with a jack handle and see how loose they really are
I had a feeling it might be suspension issue. I'm going to try that first.
 



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