The battery had been dieing for a few days. I had to jump start it a couple times. I replaced the battery last night and now it won't start. It cranks over fine. It seems like it tries to start at first then quits, just cranks over. I haven't had time to do any checks. Washed the battery terminals and tray with baking soda and water, then rinsed with clear water, so connections are good. No check engine light on. Anyone have any good clues as this never happened when changing battery in the past. It does have an after market remote starter that went into "safe mode".

 

Sounds like a typical automatic shutdown circuit failure but your remote starter may be involved. Other than that make sure you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to on/run and check for spark.

 

I checked the shutdown and fuel pump relays. Both are working. I even jumped around them. When you turn the key to run you can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two. Also during cranking you can hear the pump run. I connected a spare spark plug and had hot spark. The fuel line at the engine, the factory put the clampon with the head turned where you can't get to it to loosen and remove line to check for fuel. Checked for any codes and none. Appears either no fuel at engine or injectors not firing. Is there anything in the system that may have to be reset due to the battery change?

 

Hmm. Since you're getting spark and you at least hear the pump come on then the PCM is seeing the cam and crank sensor data, energizing the ASD relay and supplying power to the pump and ign coil. You're getting spark so the timing belt is intact. How long has the belt been in there? Could it have slipped? Comparatively rare on a V6 but not unheard of. You can feel for a click on the injectors or use a stethescope but is fuel actually getting there? Other engines have a test port on the fuel rail but I don't think the 3.0 has one. Your backwards clamp is a bit of a brick wall. How about pulling a plug and see if it's wet with a raw gas smell? Nothing I know of that has to reset after a battery change though the process does erase what the PCM has "learned" about your driving habits. Can't see that effecting starting. Might try disconnecting the battery again for 5 minutes or so.

 

Did some more testing tonight. Disconnected the fuel line and added extension so I could put in bucket. Found out the pump wasn't running continuous. I took out the fuel pump relay and jumped terminals 30 and 87. With the key on the pump would run and a stream of fuel ran into bucket. Not a large stream as the hose was 1/2 id. Reconnected the hose, left the jumper wire connected and it would start. Run a little rough at first. It would sometimes run 5 seconds, some about 10 the quit. I didn't jump across the asd relay. May be the pcm or not enough fuel pressure. Taking to shop tomorrow to get it checked out. Have a shop 4 blocks from house that have all the computers for Dodges.

 

Shop put gauge in fuel line and pressure was less than half what it should be. They plugged line and jumped a test bench pump in and van ran. They let it run for 10 minutes. They wanted $690 to replace pump. Told them no and paid them $45 diagnostic fee. Towed it home and replaced pump and filter myself for $250. I could have done it cheaper with an Airtex brand pump, but two parts houses said they have a lot of returns on them, so bought Delphi pump for $80 more. It was strange that when the battery went so did the pump.