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Old Sep 1, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #11  
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Part of the reason Sidney is gone = $$$ for AP. That is the only reason he is gone. New stadium...new contract for AP and the best QB prospect we have had since Brad Johnson. Maybe...someday...I won't have to break my foot off in another TV during an NFC championship game!!! Don't get me started...wrong forum!!!
 

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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #12  
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I guess I didn't cry much when Sid left, seems like he could only play with Brett. Stadium, that's another issue entirely.........this state would rather spend their money on another theater or art gallery than support a sports franchise. The Twins had to beg for decades, they finally build Target field and it's the greatest thing we ever did. They need to shut the F up and just build the dam thing.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #13  
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I don't live in MN but I hope the Vikes get a stadium. I sure hope they don't move the team and the homer dome...well...everyone saw the disaster! I don't think my fan appreciation would travel. I live in the land of the Giants, Jets & Bills fans...I grew up a Viking fan & will never change...what can I say...I am as loyal as my wife is to Dodge GC's!

PS-Battery has been discharging slightly...This morning was at 11.9 volts but still started right up. Drove an hour today & van sat for 7 hours & tested @ 12.2 volts before we came home. I will attempt a "key-off battery" drain test tomorrow after I fully charge the battery. I also need to find a 2A 2AG fuse for my 25 year old Fluke multimeter. Radio Shack does not carry them anymore. I will keep you guys posted!I am thinking it may be the radio/dvd system could potentially be the drain but I really don't know where else to start...Are there more obvious fuses or relays to pull?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #14  
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depends on how much the drain is. To test for a battery draw, you need to connect an amp meter in series to the negative battery cable. I have a battery disconnect tool I put on because you need to power everything up before you test for the drain and most meters can't handle that many amps going through them. If you just disconnect the battery and connect your meter, whatever is causing the drain might not power up. you power everything up, turn off the key and open the disconnect so the power is running through your meter. Anything below 30 ma is considered normal. If it goes down to below 30, watch it for an additional 15 to 20 minutes and make sure it doesn't spike back up again (very common on the newer systems) If the drain is higher, let me know, the amount is usually the key.



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431 - Parasitic Battery Drain Test Adapter


 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #15  
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Thank you for the info. I was going to connect in series the neg. cable & neg. battery post with my DMM. If I start by pulling fuses one by one I should be able to find out where the draw is coming from...right? I don't have a current shop manual but I was able to peek at a 2007 Dodge GC(We have a 2008 GC). The manual said up to 50Ma was acceptable but anything from 100-500 was considered a high draw. Our van is loaded with the hard drive/dual dvd/ambient lighting/premium sound, ac/dc receptacle, ves jacks, etc. & I am sure the 2008 manual is different. Is there any modules that need to be reset on the 2008's since I left it at the dealer and the battery ran down? Thank you fellow Viking fan!
 
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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 06:02 PM
  #16  
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Tizzy1, I thought I had the battery thing solved...but sadly I do not. Since my last reply I fully recharged the battery & took it to Advance Auto & it tested ok. I re-installed the battery and after approx. one week it is running down and on the first cold night here in NY it did not start without a jump. I have fully recharged the battery and have my ammeter reading of .29 Amps or 290 Milliamps. I have left my meter on for quite some time and it seems never to go lower than that reading. I also did a voltage drop test on all the mini-fuses with the contacts on top and they all dropped to zero. Any ideas of where to go from here?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 02:37 PM
  #17  
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290 ma is usually a module that is not powering down. Try pulling fuses.......pull a fuse out and see if the draw goes away, if not reinstall it and pull the next one. When you power down the module, the draw should go away so we can narrow it down by which fuse it is.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 03:01 PM
  #18  
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I'd take it back to the dealer and have them check it out. Sounds like they may have pinched a wire while doing the head work and it's draining your battery.
 
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