I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for the multi-function switch; my turn signals (both sides) only operate intermittently. All bulbs are known good - the hazard flasher works every time. Sure hope this isn't a BCM problem. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

 

very good possibility you need a flasher, it is very common.

 

 

Yep, what Tizzy said. I have 2 DGC and I've had to replace the Flasher on both of them with the exact same symptoms. The hazards are on a separate circuit of the flasher and that's why it's still working fine.

 

Yikes ! My Advance Auto wants $126 for that flasher module. Thanks a lot for the diagram, makes it pretty clear thats my problem.

 

Consider trying this:

An intermittent or occasional Dodge Chrysler 4686094 flasher module can be repaired easily! SAVE YOUR $45!!

1. Pull out the flasher;( it is 1"x1" x 2" #4686094 relay module under dash, put your head against the brake pedal and look up, it sticks up higher than most and is 3/4 way up on relay panel; if you push on the relay with the blinker on, and it may start clicking to help you identify it. My car is a 1996 dodge caravan ). The relay is a pain to get out, but keep thinking of the $45 you save.

2. Now to repair the relay. On the spade pin side of the relay, bend and brake off the two 1/2" x 1/32" plastic ears that hold the relay cover on and slide the relay cover off.

3. Look at the circuit board side with the shiney solder connections. The exterior pins go thru the plastic base and are soldered to the circuit board. These solder connections to the pins get hairline stress fractures and are intermittent as they make and lose contact. If you use a magnifier glass you can see the offending cracked solder joint.

4. Re-Solder each contact point on the circuit board edge. This can be done by just reheating the contact with a solder iron till the solder flows a little . If you do use some extra new solder, make sure it does not flow across (bridge) the contact points. It is not necessary to re-solder the component connections on the board.

5. Put cover back on and secure with a dot of glue or short piece of scotch tape , and reinstall in car (I cursed alot when having to blindly reinstall, it is more a pain than removal, but I kept thinking of the $45 saved).

Try this and keep from giving $45 dollars of hard earned money to the unworthy dealer.

Posted by catfishfryer at www.automotiveforums.com

 

Thanks for that, Cougar. See what you mean about access - I ended up zipping the knee blocker panel off just to make it easier to get to. I was able to see the cold solder joints with just my reading glasses, and a few minutes with the iron did the trick. Much abliged.