Dodge Caravan The Dodge Caravan is the best selling mini van from Dodge. How many Dodge Caravan owners here at DodgeForum.com would agree? Discuss it now!

2003 Caravan shuts itself off

Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:34 PM
  #1  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default 2003 Caravan shuts itself off

Hi all:
This is my second post on this forum as I am a new member. I have, though, had my 2003 Dodge Caravan (3.3L) almost since new. It has 110k miles and just had its ignition switch replaced. It ran fine for a week and then began spontaneously shutting itself off. I took it back to the technician, but they could not get it to do it and are not sure what to do. They retraced their steps and cannot think of what might cause this. Since getting the van back, it has done this two days in a row.

Here's what happens: The car starts fine and after about 2 minutes of idle it just stops - no spitting or sputtering. It just stops dead. It generally cannot be immediately restarted. You can turn the key to start and dash lights up, but no movement from the starter. After a short while and a few tries, the car still start again. Once, after a short drive, the car actually died on the road - in the middle of an intersection! Same thing. It wouldn't start, but after a short pause, it started again and ran with no problems. I was going to suggest that this was a cold engine problem (i.e first start of the day) until it died on the road after having been running for about 10 or 15 minutes.

I am about to replace the Auto Shut Off and the EATX Safety Shut Relay as a precaution, and we'll see. I know relays can go flaky, but they also receive signals from a lot of other things that could be flaking out (e.g. the CPS). I do not have a code reader, nor did the technician mention any codes.

Has anybody had a similar experience? Do you have any ideas? Am I barking up the right tree?

I'm no mechanic, just a guy who can work Google, isn't afraid to get his hands dirty, and wants a van safe enough to take his kids to school in. Any help you can throw my way is appreciated! Thanks,
Scott
 
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:43 PM
  #2  
steak59's Avatar
steak59
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 8
Default

You have any aftermarket accessory or remote start?
Did it happen after they did the Ignition switch? what did they replace? the ignition cylinder or the Electrical part of the ignition switch?
Maybe the Ignition switch has a poor connection. Remove the steering column shroud, with the car running, Wiggle the Wiring Loom going to the ignition switch, see if the car dies.

Also, did the car Flat out die like you turn the key off? or does it sputter for few second like u r running out of gas?
 
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #3  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

steak59:
Thank you for your quick reply! Yes indeed, I do have an aftermarket remote start that has been on the car and worked flawlessly for more than 6 years. My current problem occurs BOTH when the key is used and when the remote start is used to start the car. The full ignition cylinder was replaced and it look - to my eyes - that that includes the black electrical component on the end of it. That's the bit, I think, that plugs into the harness. I tried wiggling it and nothing happened.

The car dies just like it has been shut off - no sputtering at all.

Scott
 
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #4  
Cougar41's Avatar
Cougar41
Record Breaker
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,256
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Default

Why was the switch replaced in the first place?

If you turn the key to start and don't see 12vdc at contact #86 of the starter relay in the IPM then there is a high probability the switch is bad. Could be wiring or the IPM but it's most likely the switch. Just remove the relay connect a multimeter to contact #86 (numbered on bottom of relay) and ground. Turn the key to start. If you can hear the relay or starter click then the switch is good.
 

Last edited by Cougar41; Dec 3, 2011 at 05:33 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #5  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

Cougar,

The switch was replaced because the key became impossible to turn. Replacing it did solve that problem, but may have created another. Though, we cannot rule out the possibility that that is a red herring and this could be an entirely new problem.

I do have a multimeter, but the testing must now wait until tomorrow afternoon. I've never really done this kind of thing before, but I can probably figure it out with you help. Thanks and I will report back!
Scott
 
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:26 PM
  #6  
steak59's Avatar
steak59
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 8
Default

Who installed the Remote start? The problem with Remote start is usually because most installer just twist and tape a wire, instead of solder/crimp it tight like we do. Because they charge so cheap and work in a rush.
I got a feeling when the technician replace the Cylnder, he accidentally loosen up some of the Remote Start wire contact without him realizing.
I recommend you to start double checking all the wires for the remote start, make sure it is nice and tight. or have an alarm shop look into it. Because you say it flat out die without Check engine light.
I've seen these happens a lot. I had a few car where the installation on the remote start is so crappy, every wire falls off when I work under the steering column.
 
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #7  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

Ok Gents: the plot thickens somewhat... I'm going to need your help!

steak59: The Dealership did the aftermarket remote; and although there is a bunch of electrical tape under the steering column, nothing looking loose or otherwise out of order. I also swapped out a bunch of relays and am pretty confident it isn't a relay problem. So...

I went down and bought a code reader and low and behold: P0725. A search of the archives has somewhat informed me about the possibility of speed sensors on the tranny. But, I've also read that this could be related to the CPS.

Would a bad CPS or speed sensor cause the auto shut off condition - that is, no-cranking?

The van started this morning twice, and died a total of four times. Now it's sitting in the garage completely dead!

Also, I'm feeling a bit over my electrical head. Should I just take it back to the shop, or are these things doable by a guy who is otherwise pretty much clueless? In any event, it is now looking unrelated to the new ignition switch, don't you think?

Scott
 
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #8  
steak59's Avatar
steak59
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,873
Likes: 8
Default

o... I would expect your Tech to check for codes and none was found.
That's a Crank sensor code. Make sure the Crank sensor Wires looks ok.
Here is the Crank sensor, replacing it would the the first thing I would try if wires look OK. And use OEM parts for things like this is prefered.
You might have to remove battery and battery tray to get it it.
 

Last edited by steak59; Dec 4, 2011 at 06:20 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 5, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #9  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

Well, the wires looked just fine and the new crank sensor is in place. No joy. The vehicle will not crank.

Given the P0725, should I have the think hauled in and the speed sensors replaced?

When I turn the key to 'start', I can absolutely hear the relays clicking from the engine compartments; so it seems as if the ignition switch is sending the appropriate signals. I would be inclined to think this to be a starter problem (solenoid?) if I didn't already know that the thing starts fine (at least, before) and rather died whilst driving.

I don't know. Thoughts?

Scott
EDIT: Well, I had it towed back to the shop. I still welcome thoughts and appreciate all the support I have received so far. I will certainly let you know when/if I hear anything!
 

Last edited by MidwestDodge; Dec 5, 2011 at 03:37 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 20, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #10  
MidwestDodge's Avatar
MidwestDodge
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Default

Well boys... after a bunch more tests etc, the technicians at my local joint ended up having to replace the PCM and the fusebox that seemed to be shorting. Sorry if that's not the correct language... I'm not sure how all of it works. I must say, there was also a very helpful post on Youtube from a guy who had a 03 with very similar symptoms. It ended up being the PCM for him as well.
Long story short, the van is running - and better yet, starting! As my father-in-law recently said, now hopefully that's it for another 100K.
Cheers and thanks to all who suggested possibilities and helped me reason through this one.
Scott
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:28 AM.