I have a 2001 GCS 137k. It's been a good car so far. Just replaced both valve cover gaskets and verified that there is no leaks coming from them. The problem that is still showing is some leaking which looks like around the Oil Pan Gasket/Oil Pressure Switch/or Oil Fliter. I did see some signs of a slight leaking on the Oil Swtich. Cleaned off oil from switch and oil pan gasket areas. Going to put some dye in and check it out.

Does anyone know of a post or good You Tube video for the replacement of the Oil Pan Gasket on a 3.3L I do have a Fel Pro just got in from Amazon.

At AutoZone online their online manuals it says on the 3.3L to put a "1/8 bead on gasket material at the chain case cover and the real seal retainer" So Permatex said to use Form A Gasket #2 for this area. Any thoughts on applying this Form A Gasket#2.

Autozone says to Torque Oil Pan Bolts to 105inlbs.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802d7634

Also never used Dye before, should I clean oil leak areas first? Or just apply dye and check then clean?

Thanks

 

Found on YouTube.

One thing he doesn't mention is if you have trouble getting the oil pan off once all the bolts are off, you can hit it on the side with a dead blow hammer (or a regular claw hammer with a block of wood between the hammer and oil pan if you don't have a dead blow hammer), but don't try to pry it off with a screwdriver or similar tool. He also doesn't mention that you should drain the oil first

Also you'll get differing opinions on whether to use sealant. If you do you should use black RTV sealant, which is what Chrysler uses on the transmission oil pan in place of an actual gasket. It might also be a good idea to wait at least an hour for the sealant to set up before putting oil in.

Also note that that torque spec is in INCH pounds, not foot pounds like most torque wrenches in the U.S. are scaled. Sorry if that also sounds obvious but I don't know how much experience you have with cars and I've known people with more experience than me who have gotten messed up by torque specs in inch pounds.

 

Today I put the dye in, but was not very easy to see during the day, so will probably wait till tonight to take a look. But what I could see today by putting samples on paper then taking inside to a dark place with UV light, showed at leaking at timing case area to pan (I guess), saw more at rear main to pan area, some at the Oil Pressure Switch, also saw a slight amount in the back of the engine above the rear main area near the head or valve cover. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets with Fel Pro? Torqued to 105inlb. I cleaned with lacquer thinner all surfaces, checked for cracks found none. Maybe should've also put down some sealant? So besides the Oil Pan gasket that I will replace. What do you think about Fel Pro gaskets in general?? On the new Oil pan gasket, Permatex suggested to use High Tack and on the area near the timing cover to use Form A Gasket No2. Torque to 105inlb.

I have all the sealants coming and Oil Pressure Swtich.

Any thoughts? Thanks

 

Installed the new oil pan gasket. The only problem I ran into was with the Fel Pro gasket was drilled a little off on one of holes near the front of the engine. So had to take down again, elongate the hole a little put up okay. Then I noticed after driving about 30 miles a very very very minor amount of oil which after using a flash light and mirror seems to be coming from front crankshaft seal. Will monitor, order and replace. Not sure if mine has the Harmonic Balancer sleeve or not?