Did not check what the temp. was, but being 98 out, the rear air was cold coming out not just cool. I did the calibration test. LED flashed, and I watched the actuators move. No LED left on when done. But I do have a question on the actuators (act.). The one next to the heater core has a gear on it. And the one next to it has a gear on it. Now why is there 2 act. that operate 2 gears that are meshed or connected together? When the calibration is going on I can only tell by the movment of the gear not the act. What is going on? The act. next to the core has a square shaft on it. The act. next to the core may or may not be moving, or is the blend door broken? I now the calibration should of shown something. Can I remove the act. next to the core and then perform the calibration test and see if the shaft moves? Once again thanks for your help.

 

Three actuators kinda in a triangle shape. The one on top is the mode door actuator. The one on the bottom closest to the drivers seat is the drivers side blend door actuator. It uses the gears because the door is actually behind the 3rd actuator. The 3rd actuator is the passenger blend door. The door is cut in half to do dual zone, the outer have (most left portion) is the drivers and the right half is the passenger side. So the square metal shaft coming off the actuator is slid inside of the first door and into the second door. I have seen blend doors break, not real common but should have failed calibration. You can take off both actuators and move the doors by hand but cant see them unless you were to remove the heater core. If the door is broken, they aren't sold separately. You'd have to get one used to do that.

 

I thought about taking out the core to look into the opening, seems to be another big job. Thanks for the info regarding the actuators. I did another calibration test. This one ran for just over 1 minute and nothing else happened.

 

should be able to just change the temp settings and watch them move. Passenger blend you would probably have to remove to see it

 

Whats your thoughts on the expansion valve, I beleive there are 2, front mounted on the fire wall and the rear for the rear air. I have been doing alot of research on the a.c. unit along with your help also.

 

Yep, have seen my share of sticking expansion valves. Do you know system pressures? If you do one, replace the filter / drier as well.

 

I do not know the pressure of the system. I do not have a manifold set, but that will be my next tool. Once again I did the test, and all act. are working. I turned the van on and watched the act. (with the square shaft) move so all 3 act. work. I will look into the valve, drier/filter as you mentioned. Take out the heater core looks to be wast of time. Thanks for help.

 

Yeah, like I said, if the door was broken, it would fail calibration. If the system is low on charge, you will hear a hissing noise from what sounds like from behind the glove box. If not, expansion valve is a good suspect.

 

Okay Tizzy, I bought a manifold set. I hooked up the unit and turned on the a/c. There was no pressure in the system. Clutch did not engage. Great now what? So I added 12oz of freon,and the gauges read High side inHG 115, and low 20 inHG. I know I only added 12oz, and its not fully charged. That means there is a leak. When the a/c was on I was still getting cold air from the rear and warm/outside air from the front. Now the question. Can the expansion valve on the fire wall be leaking? And also the low pressure line from the compressor to drier, what is that large black cylinder that is just under the air intake from the air cleaner? I hope this info can help. Thanks for your help.

 

2005, the main leak locations are the junction where the lines go through the floor in the back right corner. I have also seen condensers leak, mainly from rock hits. I use florescent leak dye to find the leaks, seems to work the best.