[4th Gen : 01-07]: Doing ATF change 41TE trany won't stop dripping can't apply sealant
2001 GC 3.3l with 41TE trany 145K. I had to remove my Trany ATF oil pan, transfer case, and the rear differential covers because they were starting to drip. I have all the surfaces ready to go, but the dam trany just won't stop dripping it's been 2.5 days??? It must be the torque converter leaking into the system?? I wonder if I should just jack the car on the drivers side up a little so if the torque converter is leaking into the system it might stop???? Has anyone tried doing this?
So I spoke to the Permatex Tech he told me to use the Automatic Transmission RTV gasket maker sealant 81180. Then tighten finger tight, let cure for one hour then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 more(but the Prematex rep said that the 1/4 to 1/2 turn is going away and just torque to spec). It doesn't say anything about torquing down to correct spec?
He also said not the use the "the right stuff" because it's sets up to fast to get all the bolts in and torque it down?
I aggree with him on the the right stuff for the rear Diff plate. Those of you that have taken it off, it's a real pain, and there's really no way to use a torque wrench on it. So probably won't have enough time to tighten it properly before "the right stuff" sets up.
What has been your experience with these products an this trany? Have you had the same problem it just won't stop dripping? What sealant did you use? And how did you apply it?
Thanks
So I spoke to the Permatex Tech he told me to use the Automatic Transmission RTV gasket maker sealant 81180. Then tighten finger tight, let cure for one hour then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 more(but the Prematex rep said that the 1/4 to 1/2 turn is going away and just torque to spec). It doesn't say anything about torquing down to correct spec?
He also said not the use the "the right stuff" because it's sets up to fast to get all the bolts in and torque it down?
I aggree with him on the the right stuff for the rear Diff plate. Those of you that have taken it off, it's a real pain, and there's really no way to use a torque wrench on it. So probably won't have enough time to tighten it properly before "the right stuff" sets up.
What has been your experience with these products an this trany? Have you had the same problem it just won't stop dripping? What sealant did you use? And how did you apply it?
Thanks
Last edited by riverjamie; Mar 21, 2014 at 02:17 PM.
The solenoid packs that sit immediately in front of the tranny pan (near the left-front corner of the engine compartment) are subject to gasket failure too. You need to take the wiring harness off and unbolt it. However you should use engine cleaner and pressure washer on the area prior to removal. Dirt could fall into the solenoid valve holes on the tranny.
I bought a new solenoid pack with gasket on ebay for about $75. Upon reinstall, the locating tubes are somewhat of a pain to get seated into the tranny.
I bought a new solenoid pack with gasket on ebay for about $75. Upon reinstall, the locating tubes are somewhat of a pain to get seated into the tranny.
Thanks for the tips guys. Lscman, just curious what ebay dealer did you use for the solenoid pack, if you have it, sometimes the guys on there are not always leigit. Was it a Mopar part or aftermarket. Did the trany have to relearn itself or did you have it reprogrammed?
Tizzy, did you also do the Diff pan? What a pan getting that one out. There's no way you could fit the torque wrench on all those bolts. So just go by feel.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the tips guys. Lscman, just curious what ebay dealer did you use for the solenoid pack, if you have it, sometimes the guys on there are not always leigit. Was it a Mopar part or aftermarket. Did the trany have to relearn itself or did you have it reprogrammed?
The relearning procedure is very seldom necessary and shops seldom bother. All they do is set it to default. The current setting is probably better. Mine shifted the same before and after, but no leaks.
If the tranny appears to be slipping or shifting too hard after the valve R&R job, go to the dealer to have the relearn procedure done.
ebay purchasing procedure:
you can buy ANYTHING from ANYONE with zero risk. Paypal protects the buyer 100.0%. If you wish to return an item because it's not as the seller represented it, paypal will return your money. If you never received an item, you also get money back. It does not matter if the seller is a crook. Crooks CAN'T have good reputations because the buyers rate them. The reputation of every seller is defined by their customers (buyers) and prominently posted for your review.
I buy from anyone without worrying if they have over 95% positive reputation and 100 or more sales. The 5% so-called bad transactions are more than likely from idiot buyers. I have bought stuff thru ebay for 10 yrs without issues.
OK, I did a 2 second search on 41TE and solenoid pack. These items are NEW and they are described as factory OE parts. Read the auction thoroughly. This was the first auction that came up....others may be cheaper or better lol. They sold 10,522 items and 4 people were unhappy out of 1000. However I'm sure paypal refunded their money. What are the chances lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-SOLENOID-BLOCK-PACK-A604-604-41TE-SHIFT-CARAVAN-VOYAGER-OEM-NEW-/250916904803?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6bd01f63&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A604-41TE-Transmission-Solenoid-Block-Pack-Brand-New-OEM-Caravan-Voyager-99864-/201039706964?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecee67b54&vxp=mtr
Last edited by Lscman; Mar 23, 2014 at 01:13 PM.
Well finally just decided to install the ATF oil pan while still dripping. Wiped everything down with Brake Cleaner. Applied Permatex Automatic Transmission Gasket Maker. Bolted it up tightened it up about have way 80inlb then after 45mins tightened all the way to 165inlb. Also installed the transfer case and Diff case, waited 1hr then torqued to 165inlb. So far no leaks. That Diff case cover is really a POA. Very difficult to get started and tighten those top bolts.
Lscman, in case my solenoid pack starts leaking, how difficult is it to remove?
Does much oil come out when you remove it? Also my ATF cooler hose are original 145K haven't seen any signs of leakage yet.
Thanks again guys for the help
River
Lscman, in case my solenoid pack starts leaking, how difficult is it to remove?
Does much oil come out when you remove it? Also my ATF cooler hose are original 145K haven't seen any signs of leakage yet.
Thanks again guys for the help
River
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I'm a little late but I should offer my advice anyway - might help somebody else.
I found on my van that there was one spot near the back that was dripping, nowhere else produced any appreciable amounts of ATF beyond the 10 minute mark, or at least I could wipe the rest dry and get 1-2 minutes of working time at the minimum. What I did was prepare the pan itself and scrape the transmission housing clean. I then used brake cleaner to clean all I could on the transmission side and applied the RTV to the pan. Next I wedged a paper towel / shop rag up into the transmission (just an inch or so) to soak up the fluid coming down and scrubbed that part of the housing clean. I brought the pan over and immediately before installing it pulled the paper towel and then stuck the pan in position. From testing I found it would take 10-15 seconds for the drip to reach the sealing edge after I pulled the paper towel out, plenty of time to get the pan up and stuck in place.
That was ~30,000km ago and it's bone dry still.
I found on my van that there was one spot near the back that was dripping, nowhere else produced any appreciable amounts of ATF beyond the 10 minute mark, or at least I could wipe the rest dry and get 1-2 minutes of working time at the minimum. What I did was prepare the pan itself and scrape the transmission housing clean. I then used brake cleaner to clean all I could on the transmission side and applied the RTV to the pan. Next I wedged a paper towel / shop rag up into the transmission (just an inch or so) to soak up the fluid coming down and scrubbed that part of the housing clean. I brought the pan over and immediately before installing it pulled the paper towel and then stuck the pan in position. From testing I found it would take 10-15 seconds for the drip to reach the sealing edge after I pulled the paper towel out, plenty of time to get the pan up and stuck in place.
That was ~30,000km ago and it's bone dry still.


