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[2nd Gen : 91-95]: trans axle problems puzzling me

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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 12:41 AM
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Default trans axle problems puzzling me

I just installed a transmission from the junk yard. Its a A670 tranaxle. I replaced the seals, took off the valve body and installed a new solenoid, and a installed a Pro-King reman torque converter. I installed a 2 transmission oil cooler coming from the cooler in the radiator. Used ATF+4 with half bottle of Lucas transmission additive. 30 miles of testing it the engine boggs down and goes back to normal. 100 miles testing it the engine boggs down just alil bit. I go to a restaurant and put it in reverse and I hear a loud clunk and clatter and it didn't move for 2 seconds and I put it back in drive and there's another loud clunk but it didn't clatter. At that point I took my van back home it started to clatter at 20 MPH and it locked up and stopped my engine. I crank it back up and put it in drive and was able to get it home before it locked up again and stopped my engine. I hope this is enough to explain my symptom. Is this a defective torque converter? If so, would the metal splines that I think are ruptured send metal pieces to my tranny and damage it?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Torque convertor is either shot or the bolts came loose and it is binding. I have heard of a lot of issues with the bolts coming loose. I'd start there.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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I know the bolts shouldn't have come loose. I tighten them ***** to like 150pds of torque. What's the best torque converter to get? I'm gonna see if the pump works by taking the return cooler line off and see if its pumping. If the fluid has no metal debris in it I'll just change out the torque converter again instead of the whole transaxle. Is this a good idea?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2014 | 07:26 AM
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They shouldn't have is something I've heard often on these convertors. Did you use new bolts? Did you Locktite them? Overtightening them will also make them come loose or worse break off. I would pull your cover and check the bolts before you rush to get a new one.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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The bolts are fine. The engine runs with no clatter in neutral or park. When I put it in reverse or drive theres a loud clunk and clatter with little movement. The loud clatter goes away and I have no power going to my wheels. I put it in neutral or in reverse and try to push or pull it and the wheels move maybe 3 yards before they lock up. I would have to crank it up and let it run for a while for my wheels to get unlocked. I don't know what that could be. Is that the torque convertor?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mike39648
The bolts are fine. The engine runs with no clatter in neutral or park. When I put it in reverse or drive theres a loud clunk and clatter with little movement. The loud clatter goes away and I have no power going to my wheels. I put it in neutral or in reverse and try to push or pull it and the wheels move maybe 3 yards before they lock up. I would have to crank it up and let it run for a while for my wheels to get unlocked. I don't know what that could be. Is that the torque convertor?
I dunno, that sounds more like something with the trans itself to me. The torque converter is always spinning, whether in park, neutral, L, D, R. It seems like you should be experiencing the sound regardless of gear if it were TC related.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mike39648
The bolts are fine. The engine runs with no clatter in neutral or park. When I put it in reverse or drive theres a loud clunk and clatter with little movement. The loud clatter goes away and I have no power going to my wheels. I put it in neutral or in reverse and try to push or pull it and the wheels move maybe 3 yards before they lock up. I would have to crank it up and let it run for a while for my wheels to get unlocked. I don't know what that could be. Is that the torque convertor?
It could be seeings in park or neutral, you are not using the TC. The fact that in neutral you can only move it 3yds before it still locks up says trans.
 
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