[General]: 1996 Dodge Caravan
I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan and all of the sudden problems!!!! My gas gauge, odometer, and all gauges on the dashboard stopped working. I am not sure what has caused this or how to fix it. Normally I work on the van myself and I would like to fix it but where do I start? I would start with a blown fuse but any other suggestions would be very helpful also....Thank You!!!
Thank again for any suggestions,
Ern#1 (Dodge Dude)
Thank again for any suggestions,
Ern#1 (Dodge Dude)
You've likely been bitten by the most frequently talked about electrical problem on 3rd generation 1996-2000 Chrysler minivans - cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster circuit board. Specifically the joints securing the connector to the circuit board. That or the climate control panel connector has melted and broken the circuit to the data bus. Got a soldering iron? The fix is free. See video:
Check 10 amp fuse #10 if the message center is also dead. It powers both. Check 10 amp fuse #2 if when you turn the ignition to on/run nothing happens on the cluster. Press and hold the trip buttons on the cluster then turn the ignition switch to on/run to test the cluster. Remove the IOD fuse in the PDC for 5 minutes to reset the data bus and BCM. Smacking the dash above the cluster sometimes works as a temp fix.
Check 10 amp fuse #10 if the message center is also dead. It powers both. Check 10 amp fuse #2 if when you turn the ignition to on/run nothing happens on the cluster. Press and hold the trip buttons on the cluster then turn the ignition switch to on/run to test the cluster. Remove the IOD fuse in the PDC for 5 minutes to reset the data bus and BCM. Smacking the dash above the cluster sometimes works as a temp fix.
Last edited by Cougar41; Sep 23, 2014 at 04:26 PM.
I tried to reply to this earlier, but I don't see it anywhere.
I had the same problem with my 1997 Plymouth Voyager. I tried all the connections, solder, wiring... but it still didn't work. I finally noticed the capacitor soldered on the circuit board next to the wiring connector had leaked out. I replaced it and it fired right back up. That was several years ago. Still works fine, no problems.
Edit: Sorry I don't have a picture, but if you look there are only a few round barrel type electrolytic capacitors. This one was standing up (you can see the two leads from the bottom going to the circuit board). I just happened to notice that there was a lot of dark goop at the base of the cap around the leads. The top of the cap didn't show any bulging.
I went to radio shack and they didn't have that rating in their bins. On the way out I purchased a mixed box of caps for $3.99 I think. When I got home and looked through them, there were (2) exactly like mine. The same voltage and rating (microfarads). I soldered the new one in (make sure you keep track of the position of the negative cap lead) and it worked fine.
I had the same problem with my 1997 Plymouth Voyager. I tried all the connections, solder, wiring... but it still didn't work. I finally noticed the capacitor soldered on the circuit board next to the wiring connector had leaked out. I replaced it and it fired right back up. That was several years ago. Still works fine, no problems.
Edit: Sorry I don't have a picture, but if you look there are only a few round barrel type electrolytic capacitors. This one was standing up (you can see the two leads from the bottom going to the circuit board). I just happened to notice that there was a lot of dark goop at the base of the cap around the leads. The top of the cap didn't show any bulging.
I went to radio shack and they didn't have that rating in their bins. On the way out I purchased a mixed box of caps for $3.99 I think. When I got home and looked through them, there were (2) exactly like mine. The same voltage and rating (microfarads). I soldered the new one in (make sure you keep track of the position of the negative cap lead) and it worked fine.
Last edited by robert574; Sep 24, 2014 at 10:07 AM. Reason: clarity



