142000 Kilometers or 88000 miles. We were driving and it was fine. After stopping at a light and when it was time to go it started to sputter like it was running on only a couple of cylinders. After a few seconds this cleared and we were able to drive it home. We decided to take it out again, drove it a short time (10 minute drive) and it was flawless. Turned it off and tried to start it again and NO START. Left it overnight and tried again, still wont start. A few of the things we have checked. ASD Relay swapped with horn relay. Can hear fuel pump build pressure and then stop when key is turned to run. Had a code for cam sensor, so we replaced that and code is now gone. So now we have fuel, but no spark. Swapped the coilpack and still no spark. We probed the lines to the coilpack while cranking. We have 12V on the supply line (dk grn/org), but 2 of the driver lines are dead and one (gry/red) gives a 12 volt signal once in awhile. It seems very strange that this would stop functioning suddenly and take out the cam sensor with it. I am completely baffled here. Never had a check engine light. My mechanic says it is either the timing chain or computer. We took a compression test last night and 175 or better across all 3 front cylinders. So I dont think it's the timing chain. Someone else suggested the flex plate has cracked and throws off the cam and crank sensor timing relationship, however it should cause a check engine light.

I am stumped.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Consider a crank sensor. I've read often times you'll get a cam sensor code when it's actually the crank sensor that's at fault and vice versa. Your coil plug tests say coil drivers in the PCM have failed but then they work when there's a timing signal present. No crank signal no timing.

 

Strange that we had no fuel and no spark with a cam sensor code. Replace the cam sensor and get the fuel back, but still no spark. I guess the next step is a crank sensor.....
Maybe it's time to take it out back and shoot it.

 

OK, got a little more information from a couple of mechanics who looked at my van. Also some more of the results from a dealer scan computer. (nice to have connected friends) The cam and crank sensors are present. When the key is turned on, they are synced. When you try to start the van, the sync is lost. The guy that ran the test said it is a timing issue possibly caused by the computer or bad connections in the wiring somewhere or even a jumped timing chain. Also, one mechanic said if there is good compression, then mechanical timing is fine, and the other one disagreed. I think I can order a computer for this thing. It does not have a security system. I also bought a crank sensor, just in case it's bad. We will put that in this weekend and see what happens before ordering the PCM. Unless, someone here has any better ideas??

 

The fix for this was to pull and reseat the new cam sensor. The mechanic did not seat it properly. Proof was the paper spacer was still intact on the sensor.

 

Ya that'l do it. Thanks for posting the fix.