[5th Gen : 08+]: 2011 Grand Caravan Misfires/O2 Sensor Issues
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2011 Grand Caravan Misfires/O2 Sensor Issues
Hi all,
At around 105,000km (5000km over the warranty), my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan started misfiring like crazy. Shows codes:
P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0172 - System Too Rich
P0132 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage
Took it to Dodge - they replaced the spark plugs, and twice tried to use some engine cleaner, but it didn't work. As this is the right side (1-3-5), and not the known left side issue, they didn't really offer me anything other than trying to replace the head for $4000, but they said they weren't really sure it was the problem. I refused...
50,000km later - still driving it and it hasn't really got worse, but hasn't got better. But I kind of want to get it fixed, and just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. I'm hoping it's not the head, but the O2 sensor or something.
Things to note:
- thousands of misfires in 1 , 3 and 5. Left side has maybe 2-3 misfires total.
- happens almost daily in summer, once a month in winter (Canada has different gas for winter vs summer)
- if it's constantly misfiring, usually turning the engine off and back on will fix it.
- if it's misfiring for a while (5+ minutes), sometimes it will give a big bang, and then stop misfiring
I've attached pictures of some logs from my ODB reader, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.
At around 105,000km (5000km over the warranty), my 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan started misfiring like crazy. Shows codes:
P0300 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0172 - System Too Rich
P0132 - 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage
Took it to Dodge - they replaced the spark plugs, and twice tried to use some engine cleaner, but it didn't work. As this is the right side (1-3-5), and not the known left side issue, they didn't really offer me anything other than trying to replace the head for $4000, but they said they weren't really sure it was the problem. I refused...
50,000km later - still driving it and it hasn't really got worse, but hasn't got better. But I kind of want to get it fixed, and just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. I'm hoping it's not the head, but the O2 sensor or something.
Things to note:
- thousands of misfires in 1 , 3 and 5. Left side has maybe 2-3 misfires total.
- happens almost daily in summer, once a month in winter (Canada has different gas for winter vs summer)
- if it's constantly misfiring, usually turning the engine off and back on will fix it.
- if it's misfiring for a while (5+ minutes), sometimes it will give a big bang, and then stop misfiring
I've attached pictures of some logs from my ODB reader, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.
Last edited by smegin; Jun 17, 2017 at 12:25 PM.
Record Breaker
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 56
From: Alberta
when an engine is misfiring...02 sensor and fuel trim data are not accurate.
start by swapping a spark plug and coil on the misfiring cylinder. if the fault follow the parts..replace parts. if the fault stays...perform a compression test. if you have low compression, it may need a cylinder head. there are known issues with the cylinder head. if you still have powertrain warranty fca will fix it for free.
start by swapping a spark plug and coil on the misfiring cylinder. if the fault follow the parts..replace parts. if the fault stays...perform a compression test. if you have low compression, it may need a cylinder head. there are known issues with the cylinder head. if you still have powertrain warranty fca will fix it for free.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 553
Likes: 64
Had any work been done before you noticed this issue? Work that would’ve involved removing the upper (and/or lower) intake, such as the oil filter housing, spark plugs, or the fuel rail or injectors? The reason I ask is because it’s possible the wiring harness for the injectors or coils was pinched during re-assembly and it took some time before the wiring was rubbed through enough to start causing problems.
What about cam phasers or solenoids?
Being primarily isolated to bank 1 immediately rules out anything that can affect both banks - this includes fuel, primary engine connectors and grounds, and vacuum leaks that would allow excess air to both banks (throttle body gasket, leaking vac lines, stuck purge valve or cracked intake manifold).
Have you noticed any other symptoms (such as erratic idle/surging or coolant/oil consumption) or had any other codes, even if they seem unrelated to the misfire issues?
Will it misfire at all times or only at certain times, such as when under load?
A mechanical problem can be determined by reading engine vacuum with the engine idling and up to temperature. A mechanical problem (such as head gasket or valve timing) will cause rapid fluctuations on the vac gauge. Normal vacuum is 18-20 in*Hg at idle (higher mileage engines can be lower but shouldn’t be less than 15) and a mechanical problem will cause fluctuations of 2-5 in*Hg depending on the issue. This is only good for determining whether or not the problem is mechanical or electrical - further diagnosis is needed once this is known.
What about cam phasers or solenoids?
Being primarily isolated to bank 1 immediately rules out anything that can affect both banks - this includes fuel, primary engine connectors and grounds, and vacuum leaks that would allow excess air to both banks (throttle body gasket, leaking vac lines, stuck purge valve or cracked intake manifold).
Have you noticed any other symptoms (such as erratic idle/surging or coolant/oil consumption) or had any other codes, even if they seem unrelated to the misfire issues?
Will it misfire at all times or only at certain times, such as when under load?
A mechanical problem can be determined by reading engine vacuum with the engine idling and up to temperature. A mechanical problem (such as head gasket or valve timing) will cause rapid fluctuations on the vac gauge. Normal vacuum is 18-20 in*Hg at idle (higher mileage engines can be lower but shouldn’t be less than 15) and a mechanical problem will cause fluctuations of 2-5 in*Hg depending on the issue. This is only good for determining whether or not the problem is mechanical or electrical - further diagnosis is needed once this is known.