I wouldn't think it that hard. Get the non-abs parts, throw them on the abs van, eliminate the abs and abs issues.
I'm picking up a 94 if you want to pull non-abs parts, depending on where you live.

 

the base brake system does use a vacuum booster. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....308428&jsn=477

the abs acuumulator will only function during an abs activation event and a brake pressure increase is required.

remove the abs fuse...if the problem is still active...the abs not causing the problem.

 

Hi primem. Thanks for the input. I believe the part that you refer to is for the non-ABS vehicle model. This Bendix 10 brake system (including brake assist) is dependent upon the ABS System components regardless of whether the ABS is actually operationally functioning.

Thank you for the offer, smokesxt. My mechanic examined the wheel speed sensors and tone wheel teeth on the axles today. The passenger side required no attention. The driver side, however, was a mess. He spent a good deal of time cleaning both the sensor and the teeth. He is confidant that the issue lies right there.

While he feels that he may have resolved the "high hard pedal" issue, he does not consider it a long-term term fix. The teeth are not good. He wants me to get an ABS axle for the driver's side to put the issue behind us. I'm doing just that.

Indeed, something got "jazzed" there during pad and rotor installation to bring an impending issue to the forefront. The "high hard pedal" failure didn't occur at all on my way home, and that included a few stops. This would be the first instance of zero episodes since the issue arose.

So I can consider this matter closed. Thanks to everyone for all the input! As you told me in the fall, smokesxt, these old vans are hardy, but the tricky part of owning them is finding someone who knows how to work on them. So true!

 

This was the case with the van I picked up this weekend. The guy had a mechanic trying to rake him over the coals for a simple water pump change ($1300). Mechanics either seem to charge a mint to work on them, have no idea how to work on them, or try to cobble them together. Crap like this is why I do all my own work, I've yet to find a trustworthy mechanic around here.

 

$1300! I changed my water pump last year. Very simple job on this van. He was being charged as though it was part of a timing belt job!

Yes, you cannot have a used car today without doing the work yourself, or investing the time to find a mechanic who is a) reliable, b) trustworthy, c) knowledgeable, d) experienced, and e) reasonable. It is not at all easy to find that combination. As someone who only drives used cars, I was fortunate that I had an excellent mechanic for 21 years. He fell ill and I had to find someone new. It took me over 1 1/2 years, and after trying out a whole bunch, I finally found 2 good ones.

 

It's a 3.8L van. The pump costs $13, I figure about an hr to change it in the van.
If it was a 3.0 van I could understand it costing more as it is a lot more work to change.
I've only owned 1 new vehicle in my life, never again. I do all my own work, I get easily disgusted by the hack job mechanics out there.
Over the next couple weeks that 3.8L is coming out of the 94 grand and going into my 94 swb, I'm really looking forward to the extra power/torque and extra gear for highway cruising.

 

Yes, the vast majority are "hack job mechanics". And many call themselves mechanics because they can change brakes and do a couple other things. It helps that I only use mechanics who do the work while I wait. The guys that say "drop it off"...no way!
And I do more and more stuff myself.

Good luck with that swap! Hope it goes smoothly.