[3rd Gen : 96-00]: Fuel Pump / Sender
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Fuel Pump / Sender
The fuel gauge in my 1999 Voyager is unreliable. When the tank is full (3/4 or more) it works properly. Below that, it becomes increasingly erratic until by (about) half a tank it reads zero.
I'm wanting to replace the fuel sender. I understand that it's part of the fuel pump assembly so I'll end up replacing that as well. As long as I'm in there, what else should I take care of also? And what are some things to watch out for when doing this job? Note: I'm getting a couple of five gallon gas cans and I intend to pump the fuel tank dry with a hand pump before I drop it.
I'm wanting to replace the fuel sender. I understand that it's part of the fuel pump assembly so I'll end up replacing that as well. As long as I'm in there, what else should I take care of also? And what are some things to watch out for when doing this job? Note: I'm getting a couple of five gallon gas cans and I intend to pump the fuel tank dry with a hand pump before I drop it.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 552
Likes: 64
It’s a pretty straight forward job, but here’s a few tips:
1) Rather than hand pump the tank empty, disconnect the fuel line at the rail and jumper the fuel pump supply circuit to B+ - much more efficient. Just make sure to relieve fuel pressure first by running the engine and pulling the fuse for the pump. Once it dies, crank for a few more seconds.
2) Expect the bolts holding the straps to be a royal pain. Soak thoroughly in penetrating oil then PATIENTLY work them back and forth to remove. They’re always twice as long as they need to be so it’ll take time.
3) Check the fuel tank straps for areas where the metal is corroding through. Replace if needed, otherwise a quick spray paint job is a good idea.
4) Expect the fuel line fittings on top of the tank to be difficult to disconnect. Dirt gets packed into them over time. I find spraying them with lube and then blasting them with compressed air works well, but it’s not always guaranteed.
5) Replace all rubber hoses that show signs of deterioration (EVAP hoses are usually the worst).
6) Wash off the top of the tank with a garden hose and sprayer nozzle then spray with compressed air around the fuel pump lock ring before removing it.
7) If it’s cheap, buy a replacement lock ring too. Just in case you damage the old one.
8) This isn’t always obvious, so for safety sake - DO NOT use a shop vac to clean inside or around the tank. The vapors can get pulled into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes. Big fire real fast!
1) Rather than hand pump the tank empty, disconnect the fuel line at the rail and jumper the fuel pump supply circuit to B+ - much more efficient. Just make sure to relieve fuel pressure first by running the engine and pulling the fuse for the pump. Once it dies, crank for a few more seconds.
2) Expect the bolts holding the straps to be a royal pain. Soak thoroughly in penetrating oil then PATIENTLY work them back and forth to remove. They’re always twice as long as they need to be so it’ll take time.
3) Check the fuel tank straps for areas where the metal is corroding through. Replace if needed, otherwise a quick spray paint job is a good idea.
4) Expect the fuel line fittings on top of the tank to be difficult to disconnect. Dirt gets packed into them over time. I find spraying them with lube and then blasting them with compressed air works well, but it’s not always guaranteed.
5) Replace all rubber hoses that show signs of deterioration (EVAP hoses are usually the worst).
6) Wash off the top of the tank with a garden hose and sprayer nozzle then spray with compressed air around the fuel pump lock ring before removing it.
7) If it’s cheap, buy a replacement lock ring too. Just in case you damage the old one.
8) This isn’t always obvious, so for safety sake - DO NOT use a shop vac to clean inside or around the tank. The vapors can get pulled into the motor and be ignited by the arcing of the brushes. Big fire real fast!
Captain
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 552
Likes: 64
If it has an inline filter, yes. If it’s in the tank then it’s part of the fuel pump assembly and will come with the new pump. It could be internal to the pump so don’t be surprised if you don’t see the filter sock on the new one.
Also, I thought it was implied, but about pumping the tank out with the fuel pump - once the line is disconnected, add a length of fuel grade hose to pump the fuel into your buckets. If you do have an in-line filter then that may be the easier place to pump from once the filter is out. Depressurization can be accomplished the same way.
My final recommendation is safety glasses or goggles. I’m guessing this is being done in your driveway and, besides the risk of gas in your eyes, dirt and rust will be coming loose too. An unofficial principle of auto work I believe in is “Something will get in your eyes the moment you can’t remove your hands from your work.” That’s true no matter if it’s on jack stands or a hoist.
Also, I thought it was implied, but about pumping the tank out with the fuel pump - once the line is disconnected, add a length of fuel grade hose to pump the fuel into your buckets. If you do have an in-line filter then that may be the easier place to pump from once the filter is out. Depressurization can be accomplished the same way.
My final recommendation is safety glasses or goggles. I’m guessing this is being done in your driveway and, besides the risk of gas in your eyes, dirt and rust will be coming loose too. An unofficial principle of auto work I believe in is “Something will get in your eyes the moment you can’t remove your hands from your work.” That’s true no matter if it’s on jack stands or a hoist.